Falaknuma: An aristocratic escape
Whether it’s feasting in one of the palace restaurants or walking around the grounds, Falaknuma is breathtaking, finds Amy Fernandes
ook up there,” said the driver proudly, pointing to a distant structure in the hills. “That is the mirror to the sky.” As we drove up the winding hill, what looked like a rather nice mansion was quickly turning into a palace, complete with the mandatory stables, a private petrol pump, acres and acres of gardens, some of which still bore the brunt of neglect, and finally the broad gates where the guards welcomed guests with an ‘Adaab’, to Falaknuma, which translates to ‘‘mirror to the sky’’. Unlike other palaces, which will take your breath away at first glance, this one prefers to study you first, then invites you through its mighty gates in a horse-drawn carriage, then walks you up a flight of stairs through a shower of rose petals and stands you in the midst of the balcony where all of old Hyderabad sits at your feet. It doesn’t mean to tease you, it’s just the way the Nizams lived; every step steeped in luxury, tradition and yes, gorgeous palace intrigue, that shows up in its architecture, decor and artefacts.
A tour of the palace is essential for every visitor, and if you really want to know how royal visitors lived, a stay in the palace is how to do it. Whether you stay in a suite (pick between the Nizam’s own palatial suite where now the Aga Khan stays when he is in the city and the smaller, but spacious Shehzada Suite), or a deluxe room, all rooms and suites face a lovely, restful courtyard. (A bird’s-eye view will reveal the palace to be shaped like a scorpion. That’s because Viqar ul Umra was Scorpio).
You don’t dine in a palace, you feast; choices are between three spaces: Celeste with its Italian and continental spread and Adaa for its Indian particularly Hyderabadi cuisine. Between the two is a terrace, peculiarly called the Gol Bungalow. Breakfast on a cool winter morning is recommended, but dinner at any cost (and I mean it in the literal sense), is a must, for it is then that the twinkling lights of the city spread below, lull you into a mood mellow with wine and food. My suggestion, leave it to the chef and he will produce a slice of delicacies that used to be in the days of yore. Some guests are treated to a special private dining at the Coronation Hall, where like a true epicure the dialogue is between you, your meal and your exquisite surroundings.