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Chicken curry for the soul

Mangalorean cuisine is known for its distinct flavour and is influenced greatly by various cultures that constitute the population of Mangalore.

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Mangalorean cuisine is known for its distinct flavour and is influenced greatly by various cultures that constitute the population of Mangalore.

Rice is the staple food of the Mangaloreans, though for the non vegetarians, fish is a must-have. Vegetables and meat are an integral part of their fare. In terms of ingredients, fresh coconut and chillies dominate Mangalorean food.

The South Kanara region has an amalgamation of different cuisines. Vegetarian cuisine is popular as Udupi food. The most popular food from this region is kori rotti served with chicken curry. Another popular Mangalorean delicacy, is the spicy kane fry.

Patrode is another favourite, which is a steamed preparation from colocasia leaves.
Chef Bala, master chef, Vindhyas, The Orchid days, “Mustard, ajwain, cloves, coriander seeds, red chillies, peppercorns, sesame, cardamom, cumin, trifal, cinnamon, dry ginger, bay leaf play a pivotal role in Mangalorean cuisine. Apart from these, coconut is widely used. It is either freshly grated or used as coconut milk in gravies. Sometimes, coconut paste is used for body or as dry copra in grounded masalas. Coconut oil is a popular medium of cooking. The combination of coconut in its varied form with specific spices gives it a unique flavour.”

Mangalorean cuisine is typified by its well-blended curries incorporating various masalas. According to chef Pavan, jr. sous chef, Dakshin, ITC Maratha, “Baffat masala is a typical Mangalorean masala used primarily in the preparation of meats such as lamb and chicken. It is dry and consists of bedgi chillies and other masalas. It can be preserved for several days without it getting spoilt. Coriander seeds, pepper corns, garlic and rice are other key ingredients in this cuisine.”

“Vegetarians can look forward to a lot of variety in Mangalorean cuisine. Kadale Manoli, Padpe Upkari, Norghi Kodhyol and various Pitlay’s, Gassi’s and Gotsu’s are hot favourites,” informs chef Pavan.

According to Neeraj Rawoot, chef de cuisine, Soma, Grand Hyatt, “Mangalorean cuisine is predominately spicy and coconut based. Since Mumbai and Mangalore form part of the coastal belt, a large variety of people share similar tastes.” Chef Pavan adds, “Mumbai has a predominant Mangalorean Shetty and Bunt community residing here and hence Mangalorean cuisine is popular in Mumbai.”

Vindhyas at The Orchid serves Manglorean dishes in its a la carte menu as well as daily thali menu. The popular ones are kane curry (lady fish curry), meen gassi, kori talna (dry chicken preparation), masa condapur (mutton morsels in spicy gravy), tindli upkari (tempered tindlis), pullikodell (tangy pumpkin curry). Dakshin at ITC Maratha, offers meen gassi, kadala gassi, kori gassi, neer dosa and bisibele huliana. Saffron Spice, Culture Curry, Mahesh Lunch Home are other restaurants that serve Mangalorean dishes.

Chef Bala reveals, “Manglorean sweets are distinct. These are much lighter than other Indian sweets. Aritha payasa (rice kheer), kukuda rasayana (mango in sweetened coconut milk), karkumbarda halwa (pumpkin halwa), seme payasa (vermicelli kheer), patoli (steamed rice cakes stuffed with grated coconut and jaggery in banana leaf), are the preferred ones.”

“Though in Mumbai you don’t really find a lot of restaurants serving these desserts, but in Mangalore banana halwa made with flour, a thinner and crispier version of a malpua called malupuri and also holgi are specialities,” concludes Chef Neeraj.

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