Yogesh Pawar traces the history of one of Mumbai's most famous halwas and its creator
What's yellow, sweet, has a legacy of 150 years, is named after what was once a kingdom and one of Mumbai's seven islands – then its farthest suburb and now a central part of this burgeoning metropolis? That's Mahim halwa for you.
This flat, palm sized melt-in-the-mouth goodness invented by a family of sweetmeat and snacks makers who migrated from Jamnagar, now in Gujarat, has had among its fans: Naval Tata, Dhirubhai Ambani, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Mehboob Khan and also some of the most notorious underworld dons who lived in Mahim. "Their families and descendants are still loyal customers and continue to send for boxes of Mahim halwa," says the 76-year-old
Ramchandra Joshi, the seventh generation selling Mumbai's most famous sweet that finds mention in several Koli folk songs. "Mahim, after all, is still home to a large Koli population," points out the owner of Joshi Budhakaka Mahim Halwawala. "The East Indian Christians and the usurer Pathan Lalas were fewer in number along with some Pathare Prabhu families."
This organic-chemistry PhD now manages the 230-year-old establishement after losing his elder brother two years ago. "When my forefathers arrived in Bombay, the women would make farsan and gaathiya and the men would go door to door to sell it. They could make enough to start a shop after several years."
But the halwa emerged only 150 years ago and that too by chance. "My great maternal grandfather Giridhar Mavji began experimenting with making sweets. The corn flour based sticky Karachi halwa, which came in square lumps was quite popular. He tried making his sweet with wheat flour instead and discovered ways of giving it unique Indian flavours using influences from his own Bhavnagri roots as well as others from the local community he was living in," explains Joshi, adding that "the only thing he was particular about, was keeping it 100 per cent vegetarian. We have stuck to the original recipe created by him."
The locals would call Mavji 'budha kaka'. The name has stuck and remains on the shop's signboard. While his original creation continues to be the fastest-selling item, newer variants with pineapple extract and anjeer have an equally huge fan following at the shop that also sells barfi – mango, butterscotch, blackcurrant and ice halwa – and namkeens – kachori, farsan and gaathiya, which are counted among Mumbai's best.
Joshi laments that the sweet wasn't patented. "Now so many people sell their versions calling it Mahim halwa; some of it is quite inedible," he laughs, brushing off any sugestions of concern. "Superior quality will always stand out and draw loyal clientele," he says proudly. We cannot help, but agree.
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