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Big wonders of India’s smallest sanctuary

In the first offering of our series of travel gems within the nation, Debashish Dutta talks about his day spent watching a chinkara family

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Photos: Debashish Dutta
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I watched intently as she moved around the undulating and at times rocky terrain with the deftness of a ballerina. The golden light of the early February morning made her silky coat glisten, while her big, dreamy eyes reflected the contentment she felt with life.

For those who are attuned, the cradle of nature reminds them of the existence of God and the sheer greatness of his/her kingdom. And the satisfaction visible on the faces of the denizens of the forest is a reminder to mankind about how simple, beautiful and harmonious life can be. The doe’s eyes were talking to the one she loved – a prancing fawn. 

After I moved to Pune in 2015, I began doing some research on happy hunting grounds around town for wildlife lovers and serious natural history photographers. That is how I discovered Mayureshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, nestled in Baramati, about 70km from Pune.

It is arguably the smallest wildlife sanctuary in the country. ‘Officially’, that is. Because in our country, we have enough and more delightful spots of nature still relatively or totally unknown to marauding crowds who leave behind chips packets and beer bottles.

INFORMATION

 About 220 km from Mumbai, or 70 km from Pune
 Opening time:  8 am onwards
 Fees: Rs 30 per person, Rs 50 for camera, Rs 100 per car
 Best time to visit: The rains in July to September for the keen photographer.
 Cooler temperatures of October to January makes sitting still bearable
 Trail maps available at the office
 5.14 km Total area of Mayureshwar Wildlife Sanctuary in Pune District, Maharashtra
 Just 1 The number of gazelle species that call India home, as opposed to Africa, that has 72 of the world’s 91 antelope and gazelle species 

Thus the unwritten, but well-understood rule amongst nature lovers to maintain the secrecy and sanctity of a natural hotspot. 

Mayureshwar Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over just about five square kilometres. It has a big heart though, and because it is relatively unknown, its tranquillity has attracted a variety of mammals and birds such as the rare Indian grey wolf, the Indian fox, the striped hyena and the Indian gazelle (chinkara). 

Unfortunately, Mayureshwar has received negative feedback from those not tuned to the rhythm of nature. A simple Google search throws up half-baked commentary about 'disappointments' from those who want to quickly see a few big animals and leave. Only those who understand that the Earth is blessed with myriad forest types and terrains are able to appreciate the diversity. 

The feathered population includes the Indian Thick-knee, White-bellied minivet, Short-toed snake eagle, Laggar falcon, Bonelli’s eagle, Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse and the Indian courser.

My lens was focused on the Indian gazelle. Locally known as the chinkara; gazelles are one of my favourite ungulates because of their lithe anatomy, not unlike an athlete at his/her prime, expressive eyes and two-tone coat.

India, unfortunately, has only one species of gazelle, unlike the African continent, that is home to 72 of 91 antelope and gazelle species in the world. 

The Indian gazelle closely resembles the Tommies or Thomson’s gazelles that graze in the African Savannah. 

A chinkara is essentially a grazer and helps moderate the growth and spread of vegetation typical to arid and semi-arid regions. They are a key component of the food chain, especially for lesser carnivores such as Indian grey wolf, the Stripped hyena, and could be the primary source of protein rich food. A smaller prey would not satiate such carnivores and they will be compelled to expend more energy for hunting. Energy conservation is a key life skill in arid and semi-arid regions. They are also threatened by feral dogs as human settlements creep up on forest ecosystems. 

According to the IUCN Red List, the chinkara is 'Least Threatened" but it warns of a progressive population decrease. 

I watched the doe and her family for over an hour from the same spot, slightly stiffened by the chill of the northeasterly wind. Given Mayureshwar's open terrain, it was possible for me to stay put inside my vehicle. My beanbag, firmly planted on the windowsill, became an unyielding foundation for my Nikon D750, coupled with the Nikkor 200mm-400mm/F4 VR II. 

Sitting still underneath a vast and beautiful blue sky, and at least some distance away from the daily humdrum of life, my mind had wandered to distant shores and days gone by. This is a state unique to a person deeply in love with nature, and one who finds solace in jungles. 

Just then my driver whispered... the chinkara family had moved uphill. To ensure correct alignment with the angle of light, we had to circumvent a bit to catch up with the doe and her family. In Mayureshwar; one can easily alight from a vehicle and scan the surrounding, but that is likely to scare the animal away. 

The chinkara is diffident around humans. If approached, it gives a series of snorts and prances away with a peculiar bounding gait. When alarmed, the herd breaks into a sprint and then stops 100-200m away to inspect the cause for alarm.

So stay put in your vehicle and always wear camouflage clothing when in a jungle, except in Africa where the print is restricted to forest staffers and rangers. Perfumes also scare animals, unfamiliar as they are to strong synthetic smells. Dark glasses can trigger alarm and retaliation from big cats, apes, primates and large herbivores. 

As I watched, a bull joined the mother and child. How do you know if a chinkara is male? Size apart, consider its horns: They appear straight when viewed from the front, but in profile, the horns of an adult male take an ‘S’ shape.

The antlers of a female are much more slender and smaller. 

Like other gazelles, adult chinkara bulls are territorial and have a clear perimeter of operations. They mark territory through faecal mounds and use these spots regularly. Other suitors are not tolerated, but wandering females from other clans are always offered an opportunity to join the harem.

Mating season is typically March to April, and a Chinkara male is always around his lady in oestrus and guards her aggressively. The mating ritual involves a bit of catch-me-if-you-can, and the male touches the underparts of a receptive female. Copulation happens in bursts and repeats, and I was lucky to get some good shots of the couple in action. They mate only once a year, and thus population recovery, in case of the outbreak of a disease or habitat destruction, becomes a slow and painful process.

BHARAT DEKHO

  • Prime Minister Narendra Modi has urged all Indians to visit at least 15 local tourist destinations by 2022. So, every Sunday, DNA will take you to an unexplored location within the country that will fill you with wonder. Share your travel story with us. Write to bharatdekko@dnaindia.net

The little fawn seemed like a typical Mamma’s boy and stuck to its mother while I observed the family. This is expected behaviour in the first 12 months of its life, after which the bull will venture out to make a life of its own Like a human baby, it was always trying to secure his mother's attention. Chinkara does, like most living beings, make for doting mothers. She would often lick her baby's face and coat as, grooming him as a sign of affection. Chinkara families usually comprise five to six individuals.

The corrupt mind looks at development as an opportunity to make money and makes it a bad word. As a result of this warped interpretation of the word, our planet has lost a multitude of species and innumerable biodiversity hotspots. Neither can return because forest ecosystems develop over millions of years, and cannot be replaced by artificial plantation. 

Perhaps there is some time left. Look around, nurture a spot you chance upon or which happens to be in your neighbourhood. Mobilise sensible people and ensure peace and tranquillity of that little Eden.

Debashish Dutta is a BBC Earth and Nikon Asia recognized professional Natural History Photographer. He documents his wildlife adventures at www.fromdawntodusk.in. He is also the Global Director & Head (Operational Risk) for a major financial services firm

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