Anarkali overkill

The recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week saw a lot of designers showcasing anarkalis on the ramp. What is it about this piece of Indian garment which finds so many takers? Is it because Bollywood actresses wear them every now and then or the fact that stylists have run out of ideas? What are the other stylish options in case one wants to ditch the tried-and-tested route?

Pop culture
“Honestly speaking, on one hand there is a homogeneity which creeps in and there is only so much which fashion has to offer per silhouette. Also, it is a demand and supply cycle. A lot of Indian women have settled into the cozy format of the anarkali. I feel it has to match the personality of the wearer,” says Nachiket Barve, who offers a curated mix of garments. Nachiket recommends straight and asymmetric kurtas as a refreshing option if one doesn’t want to get stuck in the anarkali rut.

“Anarkali is the most laziest and non-chicest option. It’s a no-brainer but works for most pear-shaped bodies. A lot of women have got stuck in a rut. There are so many chicer options like concept or zip-on saris. Also, the anarkali tends to look very costumey sometimes so one must be careful and opt for a modern version. It’s amazing that designers Abraham and Thakore have brought kedia-style anarkalis back into fashion,” says Sujata Assomull Sippy, fashion columnist.

Unflattering
“Every few years the anarkali comes back in fashion. It is not a case of lazy designing. It has become one of those staples in Indian fashion. But of late, the bling has made these kurtas look a bit over-the-top as they completely swallow the petite figure of most Indian women. If you look at a figure type like Deepika Padukone, it looks good on her. But it certainly is not the best silhouette for a smaller, more voluptuous frame,” says designer Wendell Rodricks.

Rahul Mishra calls anarkali — a t-shirt for the Indian festive wear. “The anarkali was good for Anarkali (laughs). I have been seeing this silhouette since the time I started my career. It is by far the most stagnated silhouette. It’s the most familiar piece of clothing. You just have to make one panel correct and multiply it so it’s easy and that’s why so successful. Roughly speaking the anarkali is a combination of a lehenga and a blouse. If you are not very tall, it looks very unflattering. If I do a kurta, my version of it will have an unconventional yoke and panels which will start from the shoulders. I prefer doing the princess line version of an anarkali where the cut is shifted to 14.5 to 15 instead of 17 inches which happens in an empire line,” he says.

How to rock it
Rahul suggest that people need to look at tailored options. “Go for tonal variation than colour blocking which makes you look even shorter. You should know yourself and your body type. Sadly 80 per cent of the buyers don’t have the anarkali body type,” says Mishra.