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Torun: A Time Capsule in Poland

A city of red bricks and legends, steeped in history and astronomy, Toruń in Poland is a medieval delight, says Vijaya Pratap

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Panoramic view of Toruń
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I amble my way through Toruń in Poland, I feel like I’ve been transported to a different epoch. Its medieval architecture–a Gothic cathedral and other huge churches, a town hall and tower, a ruined Teutonic Knight’s castle, city walls, granaries and burghers’ houses–creates the atmosphere of Toruń’s Old Town. They are all built with red brick, giving the town a rosy glow that looks even more beautiful when you see its reflection in the Vistula River.

My guide Karolina Rucinska, with a great sense of pride for this celebrated place, fills me in with details whilst taking me around town. The layout of its streets and squares has not changed since the middle ages, when the town was a political and economic power house. Toruń owes its wealth to Teutonic Knights, who ravaged and conquered lands; they also posed a threat to the Crown. The Old Town, considered a true Polish marvel, still buzzes with life against the backdrop of historical buildings. The Old Town, New Town and ruins of the Teutonic Knight’s castle are all UNESCO World Heritage sites.


Torun's Leaning Tower tilts at a crazy angle and stands without any signage or fanfare

The old fortifications survive as fragments of defense walls, gates and towers. Of them, the most famous is the Leaning Tower, a square tower on the main fortification facing the river. Built with red brick in the 14th century, the 15-meter tower leans at a crazy angle without any signage or fanfare and is inhabited. Its lean is a result of its poor foundation and locals call it the Polish Pisa. Tourists are often challenged to stand against the wall with legs together and arms outstretched in front. You’re expected to do this for more than five seconds... I doggedly try and manage the precious five seconds, almost ready to fall and save myself at the sixth!

Of late, Toruń has gained much importance as the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus; the great astronomer was born here in 1473 and formulated the first modern heliocentric theory of the solar system (i.e. the sun rather than the earth is at the centre). His name pops up all over town and a fine statue of him stands next to the town hall in the Old Town. The baptismal font of the cathedral, where he was christened still remains and the house where he was born, is now a small museum. A tall man dressed as Copernicus, holding a globe, greets us at his house. Peering into rooms displaying replicas of the original astronomical instruments made of wood, I imagine Copernicus as a quiet child immersed in his studies.


A tall man dressed as Copernicus, holding a globe, greets us into the house. Pic: Vijaya Pratap

While Toruń's history and achievements are attractive, its appeal comes from its numerous legends, traditions and oddities. For instance, the Market Square has a donkey sculpture, a recreation of an old, wooden, medieval donkey that also stood in the same place and was used to punish criminals. They were made to sit on the statue, which has a sharp, metal plate fixed on its back, and to increase the severity of the punishment weights were tied to criminals’ legs. If it were a real donkey, I would feel sorry, more for the dumb donkey than for the punished.


This donkey sculpture in the Market Square was once used to punish criminals. Pic: Vijaya Pratap

On a trip here, you musn’t miss its famous gingerbread cookies, which come in all shapes; hearts being the favourite. One of the shops, Pierniki, that Karolina takes me to sells them in boxes that look like historic houses. Gingerbread in Toruń goes back to the town’s founding in the 13th century. And for the perfect taste three ingredients are key–honey, ginger and cinnamon; you can try your hand at making it in the Gingerbread Museum, a reconstructed 16th century bakery that allows you to bake your own souvenir. The town also has a statue of a gingerbread woman.


Torun's famous gingerbread cookies are in various shapes and sizes. Pic: Marcin Floryan (CC BY 2.5)

Before leaving I head to the Main Square near the old town, which houses a charming statue of the young boy Janko playing the violin in the middle of a fountain (its rim contains a series of frogs, all in bronze). He has been immortalised by several stories that depict how he overcame a witch’s curse on Toruń–an invasion of frogs–by playing his fiddle and luring the frogs out into the woods. For this, the mayor rewarded him with a sackful of gold and his daughter.

What left me intrigued as my tour ended was to know how Bollywood and Indian food have caught up in Poland. They are showing Lunch Box in their theatres with Polish subtitles and I’m told Warsaw alone has 25 Indian restaurants. To my delight, there’s one in Toruń too. I couldn’t help but find out for myself what Royal India has on its menu, the answer was delicious Punjabi food.  

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