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Just back from a short trip to London.It is one of the miracles of globalisation that now international chefs are mobile and even deign to visit our shores. One of my most favourite chefs in London, Angela Hartnett was not where she should be at the Connaught in Carlos Place, Mayfair, but at the Grand Maratha Sheraton at Sahar where she has been cooking at the invitation of the ITC. Unfortunately by the time you would have read this place Angela will only have one more day at the Grand Maratha serving the most exquisite cuisine.
But if you can go, you must. As my friend to accompanied said "it is just like eating in London", only the price is barely a fraction of what it would cost you at the Connaught or at any half way decent restaurant in Mumbai.
I started off with the confit of duck ravioli it was one very large and succulent ravioli with the flesh of the duck which was prepared as a 'confit' (preserved), it was sublime. My friend had the veloute of white onion soup which looked very good indeed. The white onions have a richness and subtlety not unlike the leek.
After the first course, we were treated to a salad of rocket, parmesan, artichoke to cleanse our palates before what the menu describe as 'the main event'.The menu was limited there were only five main dishes to choose from.But they were chosen well and faithfully showcased the brilliance of this extraordinary creative chef's talent.
My friend ordered the famous Mantuan delicacy, the Pumpkinravioli.Angela's grand mother was from Mantua. This was a classic dish and given her provenance there was reason enough for her to make it superlatively, and she did so.I must confess I made a mean Pumpkin ravioli myself, but the little touches here made a huge difference.
The key feature of this dish is the Amoretti biscuits traditionally mixed with the pumpkin puree mixed with the nutmeg and mostardo cremona (a kind of fruit preserve).
She scattered some of the crumbs of the amaretti over the pumpkin pasta with the parmesan, giving the dish a crumbly richflavourI had not encountered anywhere else.
I ordered the John Dory fillets (a fish similar to Sole or Plaice), these were served on a traditional Mediterranean Salt Cod puree 'the brandade', fish on fish; but the delicacy of the John Dory's flavour came out with the contrast of the sharp saltiness of the brandade. It was a clever touch and one befitting a true master of her art. Richard Olneyin his classic Simple French Food confessed that he could never see the point of a 'brandade' which he disaparagingly referred to as having the texture and look of mashed potatoes, well, here it is, the classic accompaniment to the John Dory.
Cleverness has its limits, and with my dessert the peanut butter parfait was disappointing.My friend wisely ordered the chocolate, which I sampled and was good.
Later we spoke. She is very much with Gordon Ramsey and they plan to open two more restaurants in London, in Mayfair and near Regent's Park. She is also opening a restaurant in Florida.More power to her, the only pity is that she's in Mumbai for such a short time.
Email: javed.gaya@gmail.com
