Column

Gastro Gnome

Chennai has long been considered conservative and parochial, dominated by the Tam Bram culture and a far cry from cosmopolitan chic.

This is changing. Nothing can gauge the pace of change better than dietary habits and range of eating places. In the ’80s it was considered smart for a city to boast a Japanese restaurant. Chennai has several and, wonder of wonders, a Korean restaurant.

On a recent trip I marvelled at the new Italian restaurant at the Taj Coromandel, Prego.

This restaurant is a product of considerable research put in by Hemant Oberoi and Chef Ghosh, they spent several months roaming around Italy, eating, drinking and generally sacrificing themselves and their waistlines.

In the course of these journeys they discovered a marvellous lady chef, Giovanna Marson. That is not the only thing
imported from Italy, the cheeses; the cold cuts and the meat are as well.

A fine dining Italian restaurant in a serious sense defines a city gastronomic sensibility, and establishes a benchmark for excellence. Prego seems to do this for Chennai.

The prosperity and dynamism of Chennai is evident everywhere, unfortunately also in the traffic and congestion. But if one looks beyond the haze, one sees an economy which has compelling linkages to the rest of South East Asia, more so than the rest of India.

This is in line with the traditional trading routes, the spice routes explored by the Chettiar merchants as far back as the 11th century.It is the Chettinad cuisine which is spoken of as hot and happening.

This has led to a proliferation of so-called Chettinad restaurants, not only in Chennai but internationally in New York and London.

A food writer friend has pointed out that much of what is passed off as Chettinad cooking has got nothing to do with authentic Chettinad food.

The base of much of this cooking is garam masala, the standard masala base for all ‘Indian’ cooking. There is a basic confusion between Tamil non-vegetarian cooking and Chettinad cooking, and this confusion has led to fake Chettinad
restaurants spreading like a rash.

It is here that the two restaurants which seek to serve the authentic Chettinad stand out and that is the Southern Spice at the Taj Coromandel and the RainTree at the Taj Connemara.

The RainTree started the trend when it opened in the mid-80s, a product of Camellia Punjabi’s determination to showcase regional cuisine.

It is now being revamped, with glass looking out to the RainTree and the gardens, sophisticated lighting and traditional woodwork.

However, the Chettinad cuisine which is showcased here is as authentic as you can get outside Chettinad.There is a subtlety at play here which you do not otherwise encounter.

The factor which makes the masala distinctive is the use of oriental spices, such as star anise. This is an spice similar to aniseed, but is more overwhelming and a touch bitter. This is combined with the more traditional seasonings like mustard seeds, urad dal, red chillies and fennel seeds to give the cuisine its kick.

There is also use of red rice from Burma. The other aspect of Chettinad cuisine is the reliance on game, particularly rabbits and a variety of birds and the use of blood to thicken the sauces.

Authenticity, fortunately, has its limits.

Email:javed.gaya@gmail.com