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Where time stops but the food doesn't…

110-year-old Kyani and Co. at Dhobi Talao continues to be SoBo's vintage rock star

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An outside view of Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao
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Among many things like the rich heritage and the art and culture scene, Sobo stands for its Irani restaurants—an indispensable part of Mumbai's culture. Combine the two and you get a place that has barely changed its façade in more than a century. Part of the BMC heritage precinct and one of the cheapest (but the best) Irani restaurants in town, Kyani and Co. at Dhobi Talao completes 110 years.

Established in 1904 by Irani migrant Khudamarad Marziban, has been passed down generations over the last ten decades. In 1959, the late Aflatoon Shokri took over and later passed it on to his son, Farokh Shokri, who is all smiles as he talks about the pride of his family. "Freedom fighters and people from the press used to hold meetings here during the Congress movement," he proudly mentions.

The eatery has been used as a location for a number of advertisements and quite a few films, including Badmaash Company. Bollywood has perpetually made its presence felt here, with Raj Kapoor and Shammi Kapoor having been Kyani's regular customers.

At the restaurant entrance, a framed portrait of Aflatoon Shokri signed by his close friend M. F. Hussain hangs neatly. "He always used to have bun-maska here. His last wish was to come back and have it again," Farokh Shokri claims with his head held high.

It's not just the bun-maska-chai that has gained Kyani ardent followers, but other traditional Parsi dishes like farcha, dhansak, mawa cakes and other varieties like omelettes, kheema and the newly introduced biryani are hot favourites among the restaurant's patrons. Open 24x7 and offering quality cuisine at incredibly low prices, you know that this is the place to head to the next time you are in SoBo and feel tremendously hungry.

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