A walk that happened recently in Byculla revealed some really interesting trivia about the area
For the tourist, Mumbai means The Gateway of India, Elephanta Caves, Dhobi Ghat and Colaba Causeway with lunch at either Cafe Mondegar or Leopold, and maybe a trip towards Bandra before heading to the airport and back home. While Mumbai may offer all of this to the tourist, the city has a greater story to tell.
Exploring Byculla
Recently, a group called Mumbai Instagrammers, along with independent museums and heritage professional Alisha Sadikot, took a ‘secret’ tour of Byculla to explore the mysteries behind one of the city’s most crowded yet non-touristy areas. Speaking to dna, Sadikot said that Byculla has a big role to play in Mumbai’s history.
“In the early 19th century, a number of Bombay’s elite moved from the ‘crowded’ and ‘congested’ Fort area to enjoy the greenery and solitude of Byculla. There, they opened residential clubs such as the Turf Club and the Residential Club,” she said.
Meghna Girohtra, the co-founder of Mumbai Instagrammers added that they chose Byculla for the walk primarily because the area has a lot of unexplored history available on a platter. “I’ve visited the entire stretch between Byculla and Mazagaon on several occasions because of the photo opportunities available,” explained Girohtra.
The group, which met last Saturday, began the two-hour tour by convening at Gloria Church. Then, they proceeded towards Masina Hospital, Byculla Market and finally concluded the walk at Bhau Daji Lad Museum. “These areas have interesting trivia and architecture attached to them, which is why I suggested this photo walk to the Instagram group,” added Sadikot.
Here are a few glimpses of the landmarks seen on that walk:
Gloria Church
The church, one of the oldest in the city, was originally built in Mazagaon in the 16th century, according to Sadikot. “Later on, the Gothic structure was rebuilt in Byculla, and for the longest time towered over other structures in the area,” she said.
Masina Hospital
Masina Hospital, which is the oldest private hospital in the city, was originally the home of David Sassoon, after whom the Sassoon Docks are named. Interestingly, photography is prohibited in this area, according to law.
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
The museum, known originally as the Victoria & Albert Museum, was inaugurated in the 1870s, even though the construction began in 1858. The museum was built using private money and was made open to public. By the time it was constructed, there were several other Gothic structures in Mumbai and the museum provided a unique style of architecture at the time, says Sadikot.
The evolution of Byculla
Although Byculla took roots as an elite area, the crowds and congestion in South Mumbai brought a number of workers towards Byculla and Parel. This was the time when the mills started coming up in the area, and a number of people from the working class set up homes here. “Byculla connected South Bombay to the other islands and was geographically important,” explained Girohtra.
However, the plague that hit Bombay in the 1890s changed Byculla completely. Sadikot said that because the working class lived in such close proximity, it resulted in a rapid spread of the disease, prompting the elite to leave the area. “This was probably a massive turning point for Byculla and was the pathway to what this part of the city is today,” she said.
What’s next?
Mumbai Instagrammers conduct a number of walks in the city, which they announce on their Facebook page every fortnight.
jayadev.calamur@dnaindia.net
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