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South Mumbai's Art Deco

Though home to some world heritage sites, South Mumbai's world renowned Art Deco seems to quietly fade into the backdrop.

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Leave aside the fact that it never actually sleeps, or even the warranted premise that its roadside food could easily be of the most delectable kinds, Mumbai is now being recognised as being home to a number of Unesco World Heritage Sites–some of the still-erect Art Deco buildings in the world. The Oval Maidan, Horniman Circle, and Marine Drive display some of the best-preserved edifices of the Victorian era.

Understanding Art Deco
Let us wind the clock back to nearly a century ago. The term ‘Art Deco’ refers to an architectural style that was popular in the 1920s and ‘30s. Many have been inclined to think that the Egyptians inspired the Art Deco movement, specifically when King Tutankhamen’s tomb was discovered.

The bold colours and adventurous architectural features made for stylish tombs, but also led to a new-found love for the eclectic by the Americans and Europeans. It was, to them, a symbol of exorbitance, excess, extravagance even, which their epoch was more than ecstatic to clinch onto.

For those that are still at sixes and sevens about Art Deco, then picture the lavish sets of The Great Gatsby and replicate those mental images onto a more local SoBo setting. A discernible testament to the decadent style of living that reigned in those roaring ‘20s. An era that Mumbai did not shy away from either, given the British dwelling that ruled the roost then.

As tradition was tossed out of the window and opulent parties prevailed, Art Deco eventually emerged as the defining style of that era. And as it dragged its feet through the ‘30s and even the ‘40s, it eventually died down as World War II ravaged Europe. Today, its remnants can be seen all around SoBo. Horniman Circle for instance, possesses some of the most majestic Georgian curved edifices. With its fountains, stylish plants and flowers, and intricate motifs along with balustrades and upper levels, the Art Deco vibe cannot be missed. However, while Miami is known to be the world’s Art Deco hub for its immaculate preservation of architectural legacy, Mumbai seems to take for granted its cultural luxuriance if we had to go by the weeds sprouting out of the cracks.

Citizen speak
Dhanraj Laungani lives near Cooperage and has always been fascinated by the architectural richness of South Mumbai. A two-hour, late-night Mumbai Darshan-esque drive later, and we begin to notice the rich concrete heritage that Dhanraj speaks of. “Look around you,” he says, “and notice the inimitable Art Deco that exists in SoBo, which, more often than not, blends in with the chaos that reigns in the city.” In the real estate line of business, Dhanraj points out the effects of early urban planning on the Art Deco of SoBo, “We are looking at two distinct architectural styles that take away from the beauty and historical value of Art Deco,” he shares. “Why not work harder on including more meaningful conservation in our urban planning?” asks the 26-year-old. A quick look around SoBo and we begin to realise that Dhanraj’s words just might ring true. 

A gift of the pharaohs or an elaborate expression of decadence by the rich and snazzy? Or both? Today, Art Deco holds an allure of great value. One that organisations such as the Oval-Cooperage Residents Association is determined to salvage through their architecture preservation measures. A step that was lauded by the Unesco that called the Oval  Maidan “remarkably well preserved”. Will that give art deco the much-needed impetus to help it survive in Mumbai?

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