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Ready to tuck into this 1.5 metre-long kebab?

Food Challenge: Mumbai’s Iranian eatery offers package for Rs 5,000

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The Baklava specialist; the kebab spread with naan and the frills
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A quaint eatery, first established in 1935 had been lying in a state of crumble. Five months ago though, the iconic Army restaurant was refurbished and thrown open to the public on Wednesday in a swanky new avatar as Sabalan — The Taste of Persia. It's main draw: a 1.5-metre long kebab with soup, salad, naan, dessert.

Sabalan is situated in the iconic and now-defunct Watson's Hotel (120 years ago, Lumière Brothers showcased their six films here, Mark Twain stayed here and wrote about Mumbai's crows in his novel 'Following the Equator', and Sir Jamsetji Tata who after being kicked out opened the Taj Hotel in vengance). It is now an 88-seater place with an outer area catering to old, popular local favourites like chai coffee, sabudana vada, pakoda, etc., all below Rs 100. Much to the delight of its regulars – office goers and lawyers from the City Civil & Sessions Court next door. However, inside along with the comforts of the AC and cushioned seats, is a larger and fancier fine dining menu serving Chinese, continental, Indian and Iranian menu.

To that end, the partners have brought down three Iranian chefs. One chef specialises in a variety of kebabs like koobideh (mince meat), barrah (meat shanks grilled to charred perfection), kebab dooru (two sided) that has two slabs of different meats grilled together and the 1.5 metre kebab. Another chef is Baklava specialist, with currently pistachio, walnut, coffee and chocolate varieties of the Iranian delicacy (eight layers of filo pastry sprinkled with nuts and drowned in honey) on the offer. And the third chef will prepare authentic Irani confectioneries. "Some say Iranian confectioneries are 10 times better than the French, and we want to live up to that reputation," says partner Reza Najmi, who also had special, large tandoors and ovens designed to accommodate the unique fare. Ingredients like dry fruits, and bar berries and somak (both blood purifiers used in the pulos or butter/zaffran rice preparations) are imported from Iran. A must try: typical Irani black chai served with a sugar candy stick. 

Art lovers can admire and even purchase traditional Iranian handwoven carpet art, showcasing Bollywood actresses, animals and landscapes in carved wooden frames, hanging on the walls. "We're open to customising portrait carpets," says Najmi. 

Co-partner Ali Mohammed Chaospur, 68, says the restaurant was started by his father Sabzali and uncle Hussein Zaherzada. “They leased it from the British for Rs 1,000 in 1935," says Chaospur. It was named 'army' because the attached Army Navy building sold basic and luxury goods to defence British officers and their families. Like its Iranian counterparts, Sabalan is a corner property – inauspicious according to the Vastu Shastra, which Iranians didn't ascribe to and happily purchased at the ridiculously low market rates. The restaurant, once in state of crumble like its parent structure – Watsons' Hotel (Grade II-A heritage structure) that keeps resurfacing for its accidents. “The architect [Rowland Mason Ordish] of Watson's Hotel, also designed the Howrah Bridge, both entirely in sturdy cast iron. So the structure won't give way. What keeps falling are makeshift, unauthorised fragments that residents have added,” explains Najmi. It took two months to restore the original pillars and flooring, and fix the drainage.

Meanwhile, that long-kebab special: be ready to fork over Rs 5,000 for the entire spread.

Iranian Connect

  • Partners have brought down three Iranian chefs 
  • One specialises in a variety of kebabs, one is a Baklava specialist; third will prepare authentic Iranian confectioneries
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