Madras in Mumbai: Which is the best South Indian restaurant in Matunga?

“Matunga is like Mylapore,” said a friend of this reporter who has spent equal time in Chennai and Mumbai. This reference is understandable when one visits Matunga, especially the area near Matunga Central station. The temples are built based on South Indian architecture; on Sunday, women of all ages are gathered at the Matunga Bhajana Samaj – the older women dressed in kanjivarams and the younger girls in ghagras – for the grand aarti. 
Most importantly, Matunga begins its day at 5 am with several stores and restaurants opening – something that is unheard of in other parts of the city. This explains the large influx of morning walkers coming after either walking or running for their cup of coffee and probably an idli-sambhar to one of four restaurants in the vicinity. 
For those who are and aren’t familiar with Matunga’s geography, the four restaurants are Manis, Ram Ashray, Arya Bhavan and Madras Cafe. Each restaurant has its own set of loyalists, who believe that their preferred restaurant is better than the other.
The food critic too has a problem: it is difficult to determine the best of the four restaurants because each of them has something different to offer. True, traditional vegetarian South Indian food is similar. Each of the restaurants serve idlis, dosas, bisi bela, pongal, upma, a variety of sheeras, but the flavours that come out of these dishes is what gives these restaurants their loyalists.

Madras Cafe: The Legend
Most Mumbaikars say their favourite South Indian restaurant in the city is Madras Cafe. The restaurant doesn’t disappoint. Situated near King’s Circle, the restaurant is a ground-plus-mezzanine structure that has had its loyalists for several years.
The idli is excellent. With just the right amount of butter, it melts in your mouth without much effort. The dosas are crisp and fresh; the bisi bela baat (sambhar and rice) has the right amount of tamarind and spices and the additional popadams given alongside just add value.
If Madras Cafe had a negative, it would be the sambhar. While many swear by the sambhar, this author feels that a good sambhar must have the right amount of all-round subtle flavour i.e. it must be tangy, spicy and get the flavour of the veggies. Where Madras Cafe misses the bus is that the sambhar tends to be sweet because of the jaggery, and this kills the flavours of the sambhar.

Ambiance: ****
Food: ***1/2
Value for Money: ****1/2
Total: ****

Ram Ashray: For the early riser
Located at the natural curve leading from the road that connects the Eastern Express Highway and Matunga Central station, Ram Ashray is popular for two reasons: the restaurant opens at 5.30 am and is full of morning walkers at 6. Secondly, the restaurant likes to experiment with its sheeras. So, along with the regular sweet, you also have varieties such as pineapple sheera (which is also available at Madras Cafe), banana sheera, chocolate sheera and badam sheera. 
The food is excellent, with the medu vada standing out. I am not the biggest fan of vadas, but the ones served here and at Arya Bhavan have made me rethink my statement on a good vada. The fried snack is served at the right temperature, is crisp when you bite into it and immediately melts in your mouth. Now, that is an experience any foodie would love to have.
On the negative, Ram Ashray suffers because of its hygiene levels. While the food is hot and fresh, the chutneys, which are really good, can cause problems for those with a poor constitution. So if you have a weak stomach, we recommend you stick to the sambar as the side accompaniment. 
Ambiance: ***
Food: ****1/2
Value for Money: ****
 
Arya Bhavan: Great, but expensive
The food at Arya Bhavan is excellent; the sambhar is unlike any I’ve had in the city and the varieties of chutney you can get – both wet and dry – are something its patrons favour. Also, Arya Bhavan serves different types of idlis such as the Bhahmin idli, the kanjivaram idli, and something called the thatte idli – a huge idli that is garnished with gunpowder chutney and served with a chutney and sabhar as well.
In addition to the traditional vegetarian South Indian dishes, Arya Bhavan also experiments with Maharashtraian dishes such as sabudana vada and poha. While I have not tried them, they have their loyalists.
The only catch to Arya Bhavan is the food is double the price of Ram Ashray, which can result in an expensive bill on several occasions. 
Ambiance: ****
Food: ****1/2
Value For Money: ***
Overall experience: ****

Mani’s: For the college student
Ignore ambiance. Ignore seating and spacing and savour the food. It’s cheap. Mani’s opposite South Indian Bhajana Samaj (or Nalli Saree store) is the favourite hangout spot of students who do not visit Deepees near Ramnarian Ruia College. Mani’s has excellent food. However, if you want to enjoy the food without worrying too much about who will stomp your foot, we suggest you do a takeaway
Ambiance: **
Food: *****
Value For Money: ****
Overall experience:****