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ShareMumbai: A talent worth watching, Imcha Imchen has his own vocabulary that deftly mixes the colours and weaves of his native Nagaland with what is acceptably known as Indian fashion. Take his tasseled shawl dress that was completely wearable. His waistcoats were individualistic, with sharp triangular points and a single button, his dhotis were like short skits, wrapped with buttons on the side, and worn with panache by the men.
Cobalt blue shorts were teamed with casual white shirts that had pleated details subtly making them interesting. In just 18 garments, Imchen managed to hint at an entire lifestyle. Pretty awesome!
Paromita Banerjee is another talent to watch out for. Using typically Indian weaves, from the delicate kota to the flowing mulmul, Tangail and khadi cottons, she created wearable, feminine ensembles, sometimes with a touch of a gold border, at other times decked with very old fashioned embroidery that ran down sleeves or the legs of churidars. Black and white ikkat checks were eye-catchingly used...a trend that others have also favoured. A trend that many established designers could take a leaf from to revitalise our wonderful weaves and the handloom tradition that might otherwise languish.
And Neha Agarwal showed how the much stylised peacock motif and closely stitched beaded borders and panels can make for some eye-catching prints and panels. Her dull-brown chiffon overlays over printed dresses were interesting, but not always compelling, but if she follows her nose and enlarges and innovates, there could be some amazing new ideas there. The relaxed, straight lines of some of her clothes would appeal even to the older woman.
New fabric ideas were evident in the bridal line by Virtues. Silk jute worked its bit, in combination with tissue, brocades and velvet. The carpet inspired designs on the dupattas added a new dimension.
Myoho showed the other end of the spectrum -- soft colours, simple lines, stenciled floral motifs on raw tussar silk and appliqué designs on kora silks made up their line of wearable ensembles. Amber was a nice new shade, though the ivory and the beige were excitingly combined with gold strips. Shapes were free flowing as seems the choice of the season ahead and diaphanous textures added the right feel of freedom and airy lightness.
Anupama Dayal played true to her love of colourful sweeping dresses. Trendsetting colours included the by now ubiquitous purple and cobalt blue, but there was also a predominance of green, crimson, and fluorescent pinks. No glitter was a relief and the swaying shapes ad structured silhouettes made eye pleasing silhouettes. Cropped pants were a surprise element among the gowns and cocktail dresses. Liked the large pockets on some dresses, especially a satin dress which sported a single pocket.
You wouldn't think rust and tea stains would make for fashion, but Mandira Wirk's fashion statement was composed of these elements which in fact added a touch of the familiar to her high style garments. Mandira's laser cutwork has been seen before, and laser work has been around for a while, but she managed to make it fresh with the silhouettes she sent out. Minis, draped skirts and tight bodices, waist coats -- really hot this coming season, and wrap skirts were part of the collection, all of which was smart, trendy and stylish. Jersey was used effectively to create sensuousness, and the way she used zippers was quite interesting.
Rehane's line of grey, cream and off-white ensembles were a departure from her usual over the top creations. There was restraint and a move towards wearable elegance. Laser cut work showed up on neck and hem lines, and there was a sprinkling of glitter.
