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Dhotis and bling on day 1 of Lakme Fashion week

Sathya Saran / DNA
Saturday, September 19, 2009 23:59 IST
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Mumbai: Sequins are back. Bling, at least in modest doses, is in, and light colours are obviously going to rule...so Neeta and Nishka Lulla will have us believe. Recession-defying sequinned cocktail dresses for baby dolls and flowing outfits in beige with embroidered sleeves, jewelled cuffs, gota-worked edges were the signature collections by daughter and mom respectively.

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Sameera Reddy in a Neeta Lulla dhoti ensemble
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(L-R) Suneet Verma, JJ Valaya, Rohit Bal, Ritu Beri etc at the last show of Day 1
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A model in a Anita Dongre creation
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A model in a Anand Kabra creation
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Neeta's silken dhotis were a definite statement -- a very sexy drape, and might just catch on. Not sure of the short frock jackets with saris. But for the women who think the sari is a jaded look to flaunt, she had some nice alternative drapes that one's saris can be adapted to!

Anand Kabra showed some really nice ways to look festive or bridal, as the occasion requires. Culling from traditional looks, half saris teamed with churidars under the ghagra, layered saris and lehengas in red and gold and white were part of his collection which could bring back the trend of dressing like the women in a Ravi Verma painting. Most interesting were his well detailed perfectly embroidered applique; pieces that were placed at shoulders, necklines or along sari borders. Ideal for those who get tired of a look of a garment and need to keep changing their wardrobe.

The dhoti showed up in off-beat ways in Vivek Karunakaran's lovely collection that started with linen Jodhpur pants teamed with fitted tops in pastels and moved on to vibrant orange ensembles in silk and georgette. The orange empire line dhoti style cat suit was a bridge between the two looks, but needs a young slim body to carry it off.

Shyamal and Bhumika revived the velvet and gold line of yesterday's fashion, with beautifully crafted ensembles. Not new, but eye-catching and regal. Gota is big news, once dismissed as passe, it is the quick and easy alternative to zardosi in these times of tighter purses.

Anita Dongre in her Timeless launch into couture used it generously, mixing it with tie and dye and leheriya georgettes, and some vibrant reds and orange half saris. Interesting sleeve variations on traditional wear, borrowed from the western silhouette, and sharara style bottoms to kurtas seem a trend most designers are favouring.

Velvet is another trend that is being shown the spotlight after decades of neglect. And black velvet long sherwanis and kurtas with an intricate zardosi focus seems a favourite with most designers.

Lakme Fashion Week celebrated a decade of existence in a way that finally set a trend that hopefully every designer will follow. Proving that India, despite everything, believes in unity in diversity, that designers, despite their differences, and egos and the cities they owe allegiance to, are Indians after all. Three design 'collections' by 20 designers, each an individual statement of the designer's signature style and individualism, made for amazing viewing and was like a kaleidoscope of Indian colour, textile, craft and creativity!

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