For fall winter 2015-16, designers recycled fabrics wastes, discarded hospital X-rays and straws...
The recently concluded Amazon India Fashion Week saw a wave of sustainability. Abraham and Thakore's seminal offering titled, 'Old New' featured old saris and fabrics which were layered and hand-stitched together to make new fabrics to be used for different purposes. In their quest for sustainable textiles they also looked at other forms of recycling - they created sequins for evening wear from discarded hospital X-rays and films. They also sourced antique recycled brocade borders and ribbons. Snaps, hooks and studs were converted into decorative ornaments.
Amit Aggarwal documented the journey of the bindi - indigenous weaves were mixed with traditional dyeing techniques and juxtaposed with recycled industrial waste. Paromita Banerjee's Boro II line revisited the Japanese term of Boro which means 'too good to waste' by exploring, recycling and upcycling fabric wastes and creating value our of left-over fabrics.
Not just a trend
Designer Amit Aggarwal says, "Upcycling is not just a trend but a way of sustainability for future also. We end up wasting a lot of things and we need to realise how much things we waste and how they can be useful. Also, incorporating unconventional material adds a bit of of personal detail to the clothes. The upcycling idea kind of struck me and thought of doing a full fledged line."
Are people ready? Amit adds, "There's a lot of awakening the last few seasons. Also people are skeptical about it that aesthetically how it'll look."
He talks about the challenges faced, "The challenge while designing is double fold and you need to look at a material which is actually a waste and then it's your job to turn it into a beautiful garment."
Part of our repertoire
Designer Paromita Banerjee says, "I used Japanese elements of kantha and shibori and created Japanese peasant uniforms. From 2013 I had a recycled project going on in the studio and felt greedy to let my buttons and applique borders go waste. We patched a lot of old collection fabrics. Subconsciously, a lot of designers thought of this season. I see it throughout the season - some of it becomes a classic and works throughout the year."
Imperative
Rakesh Thakore of Abraham and Thakore says, "I think upcycling is terribly important and also been part of our vocabulary and relevant to contemporary life. Every collection moves into a different vocabulary. I think recycling takes a certain amount of planning and how it can adapted into day to today clothing."
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