In conversation with the designers behind the label 'Miuniku'

It's not every day that the world applauds Indian talent before India even begins to take note of it. But that's the story of Miuniku. Two sisters, who've grown up bickering over petty things, set out from the cocoon of their suburban home, trade the family's savings for an international education hoping it will put them on the path to their dream only to realise that no prospects await back home. Dejected, and with not much to lose, they apply for an international competition, more as a lark than with any serious intent, make the cut and enter the "inner sanctum of the fashion world". Tina and Nikita Sutradhar haven't looked back since.

What's particularly remarkable about the journey is that they were the youngest participants at the inaugural LVMH Young Designer's Award last year. Tina, 25, and Nikita, 23, beat 1,221 others from across the world for a Special Mention laurel.

"The entire Lokhandwala must've heard Niku (Nikita) scream when we got the call from LVMH," recalls Tina, the 'Miu' in Miuniku, their label which conjoins both their nicknames. "When we were short-listed, we met the who's who of the fashion world — from Karl Lagerfeld to Sara Maina of Vogue Italia. That was a prize in itself."

Nikita chips in: "I'd told Miu that we had a 'zero' chance of winning since on the application form we'd stated that we had zero employees, zero stockists and zero turnover! ...I think us being from India worked for us."

This India connection is not one inspired by traditional motifs, textiles or silhouettes. On the contrary, Miuniku's aesthetic is altogether alien from the rustic and exotic expression that has become synonymous with India and Indian designers abroad. Post-liberalisation kids, who grew up listening to Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera, Tina and Nikita are amongst those who are confident of being in their own skin while inhabiting a global world. So while their personal wardrobes are bereft of salwar-kurtas and other Indian garments, they happily infuse colour in their collections.

"India inspires us in terms of colour and proportion. It is one of the most colourful countries in the world," says Tina. "It's a mix and match," adds Nikita. "Our cuts and designs are clean and simple but we use colour in a maximal way."

Structural creations
Each of Miuniku's four collections has been inspired by slice-of-life observations - from the iconic blue and yellow Ikea bag for the collection 'Mundane Things' to confetti for their latest autumn-winter 2015 line 'Birthday'. Ambitious structures, wild cuts, playful layers and particular emphasis on the small details are the hallmarks of Miuniku clothes. It's difficult not to fall in love with the innocence of their designs.

Between the two, Nikita excels at making patterns while Tina enjoys layering. "Miu usually incorporates the feminine cuts and I add the oversized, menswear-inspired details into the clothes," says Nikita, who did a pattern-making course at Raffles Design Centre in Mumbai before studying fashion design at the London College of Fashion (LCF).

Tina, who studied fashion marketing before joining Nikita for the same course at LCF, pitches in: "Fashion is a lot of hard work. Rob Phillips, our creative director at LCF, often told us that fashion is different from clothing. What makes fashion fashion are the details, he'd say."
And indeed, the sisters pay careful attention to the details, down to the very spinning of the fabrics they use. "It's important to know the thread count in the fabrics to know whether the fabric will lend itself to being pleated, folder, how it'll 'fall', whether it can be dyed, etc. Besides, we need to have this information so we can suggest how to care for the garment," explains Tina.

The details are part of the reason why they source their fabrics from Italy and the UK. "We do buy the cottons from India, but heavier fabrics, such as wools, are better outside," says Nikita. "We've been working with some of the suppliers since our college days and even though we are a very small label, they are open to collaborations for fabrics."

Extending footprint
Staring at a financial crisis and extensively hunting for jobs after completing their LCF degree to being recognised and supported for their talent, the sisters have experienced a whirlwind in the span of just two summers. "It was all very depressing," recalls Nikita. "After we returned from London, a lot of people told us to get a job or open a boutique..."

"But our parents have been very supportive. They never once asked us to take up a job that we didn't want to," finishes Tina.

The LVMH award was the turning point. The recognition and resources that it brought jump-started the Miuniku label, prompting fashion houses and media to take note. From one store in Tokyo that stocked three of Miuniku's pieces before the LVMH competition to finding space in outlets in Milan, New York, Los Angeles, Beijing and Hong Kong, Tina and Nikita's business has been gradually expanding. Next week, the duo will take-off for Shanghai for a store launch and will leave for a show in Milan soon after returning home. "A lot of times when we sit back and think about it, we are in awe, we can't believe everything that's happened..." says Tina. "We enjoy our work, we don't feel overwhelmed by it and that keeps us and the brand going," finishes Nikita.

By August, the sisters, who have a production studio in Andheri, hope to move base to London. "In the next 10-15 years, we'd like to be on par with (luxury brand) Celine," says Tina. "And I hope we get bought by LVMH at some point!"

Hopefully, things will come full circle for Miuniku someday.