When America’s witches performed a mass spell to stop President Trump doing harm earlier this year, it was the moment of reckoning. While Christian conservatives accused the witches of “declaring a spiritual war”, designers reflected this mood of powerful feminine figures taking a stand against the socio-political turmoil sweeping the world.
Fashion critic Nicole Phelps in her review of Rick Owens Fall Winter 2017 show noted, “With pieces layered one on top of each other, coupled with the hats, the looks conjured visions of queens, high priestesses, witches, even. If ever there was a moment to summon the coven, it’s definitely now.”
Giamba too added a darker, sinister edge to their otherwise-cloying offering with pronounced Gothic references.
While Alexander Wang embraced urban Gothic staging his show against the backdrop of crumbling decay in a disused Harlem theatre in New York, Donatella Versace made a strong case for equality and women’s rights. Saint Laurent sent out a velvet mini with a floral motif (which was revived from a vintage YSl outfit), Rodarte’s Goth romance continued this season too. At Christian Dior, one of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s velvet dress in midnight blue echoed a similar sentiment.
While feminism has been on almost every designer’s mood board for the last couple of seasons, this fall winter, it takes a rather subversive approach. Let’s speak to some of our style arbiters on design set’s current fascination with the wave of strong femininity.
Fashion can’t ignore politics
With Trump coming to power and the UK battling Brexit, it’s hard for designers to take the escape route. Nonita Kalra, Editor, Harper’s Bazaar India says, “The political statement designers are making around the world is of a new feminism, where individuality plays a key role. It is no longer possible for fashion to ignore politics but how they are interpreting it is where you can see a strong point of view.” She observes that speaking out loud and clear is the hottest new trend.
Folklore Americana
Nishat Fatima, photographer and fashion writer identifies ‘Folklore Americana’ as the umbrella trend. “So it does look like America was on the minds of designers. But for the representation of a strong feminine force, I would look at the powerful pantsuits and tailoring that appeared on so many runways as well as the complete takeover of leather and its feminine reincarnation,” says she. Tailored to suit different fantasies, power pantsuits were seen majorly at Zimmermann, Victoria Beckham, Rosie Assoulin and Rebecca Taylor.
Fashion mirrors mood
Asmita Aggarwal, fashion columnist observes that the mood in fashion is dark and gloomy as there has been a socio-political uncertainty in the world due to Trump’s antics, ban on Muslim migrations and Brexit affecting many lives. “Fashion, as history will tell us, is not divorced from the rest of the going-ons in the world so it mirrors the mood. It is feminine minus the ruffles and the fuss, and this kind of is ‘in’ keeping with the understanding that we need to wait and watch how things will unfold,” she says.
Fatalistic confidence
Designer Aniket Satam sees this trend of dark romance narrating the mood of someone, who embraces all things delicate with a fatal confidence. “Regal textiles like velvet, lace, mesh in noir shades of midnight blue or black add to this mystical vibe of this modern day witches,” says he. He sees it as the most refined take on the Gothic Lolita subculture from Japan which would be taking over the high street soon for fall 2017.
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 "Fall-Winter-2017")
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