Styling the divas

From Penelope Cruz to Beyonce, Naomi Campbell, Padma Laxmi to the late Benazir Bhutto, designer Hanut Singh has designed exclusive jewellery for all these red-carpet sirens. Recently, Hanut partnered with Saffronart to showcase his latest collection in New York. In an exclusive interview with DNA, Hanut gets chatty about his love for jewellery.

How did you stumble into jewellery designing?
After going to Hunter College in New York, I worked with a few Indian magazines. Though, my whole design process was completely organic and had nothing to do with my writing and editing. It was just this passion that I had. I didn’t know where it was going to take me. I did my first collection of about 20 pieces based on pearls and shells. I had a little show — a sell-out and that allowed me to do my next collection. It was all about proportions and movement and architectural lines. Even today, my designs may be elaborate, but it’s not fussy feminine jewellery.

Your family boasts a magnificent collection of jewellery. What sensibilities of this heritage can be seen in your work?
I am completely untrained in jewellery design, but growing up around these pieces, which were specifically made for my family in the 1910s, the 20s, and 30s when jewellery was at its optimum design-wise, was the most amazing training as far as proportion, stone, cut, and colour. So when you grow up around these pieces, it does play into your work.

Who do you design for?
My clients are women who know their jewellery and design. I don’t design for a novice, but for people who know their stuff. I don’t do the heavy pieces so that they can be worn all the time, on holiday travel, or out to lunch.