Style debate: Surily Goel & Kallol Datta

Surily Goel

Magpie

The Magpie aesthetic has evolved beautifully over the years thanks to game-changing designers like Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Mary Katarantzou. Michele has been the magpie torchbearer as he’s given a new meaning to it, his unique twist hence taking it to a new level.

It’s almost like reading out poetry through the outfit with birds and bees adding their bits to the narrative. Goth has its own charm but I feel, it sort of constraints you, which is not the case with Magpie, which can be interpreted in many ways. On the other hand, Magpie offers you the freedom to twist it and make it Gothic.

It’s designers’ way of conveying their inner most thoughts, fantasies and emotions through clothing. This cerebral movement is like going back to school and playing dress up. Most importantly, it’s the most easy style of dressing. As a designer, I have always been a big promoter of ‘mix and match’.  My label has been all about bringing your own style and personality into your closet. It’s the way you put things together and also the way you layer up.

My clothes are all about romance and I’m of the belief that the clothes should make you feel amazing. For example, my new white line can be worn anywhere with the right amount of stylistic tweaks — it could be on a beach with something casual or for a wedding in a more dressy avatar.

Hippie chic has been around for a while but designers like Michele have given it a new spin, a never-seen-before way of story-telling, an opportunity to role play through clothing. One day you want to be part of Alice in Wonderland and the next day you picture yourself as a Shakespearean muse. What fascinates me about this genre in fashion is that the same outfit can be sophisticated and gypsy at the same time. Over the years, this look has become more luxurious. In India, Avanti Birla is a true Magpie and also Roohi Jaikishan, to an extent. Another name which comes to mind is of Bandana Tewari, who’ll pair her Anamika Khanna with biker glares.

Haseena Jethmalani’s personal style has always been very gypsy boho. It’s interesting to see how this trend has filtered on to the red carpet with the likes of Huma Qureshi and Alia Bhatt opting for ruffled net gowns.

(As told to Manish Mishra)

Kallol Datta

Goth

The inclusion of Gothic fashion into the mainstream may come across as tokenistic or bit of an oxymoron of a situation, if there ever was. The sub-culture and its adaptations were never about a colour. Nor was it ever meant to be brought into fashion as a trend. Shrouding a model in black lace does not make it Gothic. Additionally, it is next to impossible to define a sub-culture with a single image. We should remember that it occurred at the intersection of literature and music. Garments were at the periphery of the movement.

There are losses, which occur in translation when concepts travel from East to West and vice versa. What makes Gothic imagery interesting in the Indian context is the inclusion of native influences and iconography. Within clothes-making, the voice of a designer is stronger when concepts are birthed from inside. Engaging with your immediate environment, forming opinions across the socio-political spectrum and guiding your work towards social commentary. When that happens, it is not about the colour black anymore. Neither is it about the stereotypical cloud of doom hovering over the clothes-maker’s head. It could be a line of entirely white or blue garments and it’d still be Gothic.

Fashion and lifestyle choices are personal. When you are subscribing to a sub-culture, your preferences and wardrobe inclusions makes the subscription to it, complete. Your interpretation of a garment presented on the runway makes it interesting for us creators and viewers. In 2017, Gothic fashion is no more dark fashion. It is ‘Moody’ now. With the self-manufactured turmoil swirling around us, it’s never been a more apt time to reflect the workings of our minds onto our clothes. With the raging socio-political brouhaha — it’ll be actually irresponsible on designers’ part if they are unable to put their thoughts across even if they are in spaces like swimwear or bridal. Just remember though, Goth is not about the colour.