Shantanu & Nikhil argue in favour of the classic Bandhgala and Sahil Aneja defends the classic suit
Bandhgala
Don’t think there’s a debate here! The Bandhgala has the classic nuances which make it a timeless classic. It covers the complete chest and leaves a masculine impact on the body - structured and stoic. It also has heritage steeped both in Chinese and Indian cultures. It’s always relate-able as it brings a sense of nostalgia to the wearer, a certain period of time which is not the case with suits. A suit doesn’t do it unless it’s an old herringbone or check suit which brings to mind Prince of Wales dedication. I don’t see the relevance of the suit beyond. It’s worn daily in Europe and America to go to work. Bandhgala is beyond that — it talks about the personality of the wearer — where he’s coming from and where he’s going.
We’ve incorporated patch pocket and military details in it and we’ve also made it fitted unlike the traditional boxy shape. We’ve made it more contemporary which redefines power dressing. Today women have also warmed up to the bandhgala so it has the quality to make them feel as empowered as men. The beauty of it lies in the fact that it can be mixed and matched differently — say with a t-shirt worn inside it or its pairing with torn jeans.
We’ve done draped looks in bandhgalas and our clients have accepted it across the country, even in cities like Ahmedabad. However, from the colour perspective, I don’t see much experimentation. Monochrome seems the ideal way to go and I don’t see too many bright colours. We started using brooches two to three years ago, and we realised people were buying clothes for brooches.
The bandhgala is here to stay and PM Modi has been able to categorically own it in the India space and the world has taken cognizance of it.
Cultures like Indian and Chinese will always been on the moodboard of designers’ stylistic inspiration because they have so much to offer.
Suit
The suit can easily replace the bandhgala but the bandhgala is occasion-specific, mostly ideal for traditional functions like a sangeet. On the other hand, suit works well for a wedding reception and cocktail and also for a work meeting. Bandhgala with a pair of jeans is a big no for me because it’s a formal attire, India’s answer to the tuxedo. However, you can’t wear it to a business meeting. Suit has gone through evolution over decades from the 40s and 50s to the Tom Ford era, who has been aped and imitated across the board. From peak and notch lapels to double-breast tailoring to flares and drainpipes — the closet staple has evolved considerably. Now Gucci has reinvented it with oversized lapels, which is a rather feminine but it looks fabulous.
Alessandro Michele has also used motifs and ornate embroidery, playing with bees and flower motifs and I see a lot of men warming up to that in terms of their jacket picks, but maybe not on their pants yet. In India, the androgyny has only been seen in editorials. Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga has done a great job with recontextualising the suit by accenting the broad shoulder.
Broken suit tailoring is another trend worth mentioning here. Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh nailed the look by showcasing the not-so-finished products and presenting details inside out oozing nonchalance. Going forward, the suit as a silhouette will stay the same but patterns will keep on changing. We made jacquard suits which were a big hit. Also, I see ikat suits gaining popularity right now.
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