Spud in the spotlight

Potatoes have always enjoyed a special place in kitchens across the world thanks to their indisputable tag of being an all-time comfort food. However, with the focus on clean and healthy eating, there’s been a dramatic shift in loyalties, and the spotlight is now on an otherwise much ignored spud from the same family — the humble sweet potato. While it’s yet to gain veg-cult status, it has emerged as a go-to-ingredient for chefs looking to experiment thanks to its nutritional benefits and versatility, culinary experts tell us more.

The root of it all

Traditionally in India, sweet potatoes have always been associated with fasts says Pinto Dafadar, executive sous chef, Cafe Zoe, adding, “Currently, there’s a focus on eating right, and that has made people aware of superfoods, and produce that has nutritional benefits. Sweet potato can be categorised in both these brackets, and that explains its popularity in restaurants both in India and abroad, which is in keeping with the health trend.”

Chef Hussain Shahzad of O Pedro, agrees and adds that for many it’s about re-visiting childhood memories, especially in India. He says, “The popularity of sweet potato is on the rise as urban India is trying to embrace its roots and going back to the way our ancestors ate, which was seasonal and local. Sweet potato as a vegetable has always been around, I have seen it in markets and homes as a child. I have memories of eating it from a street vendor, roasted whole with the skin on charcoal embers and then cut open and doused with chilli and a generous squeeze of lime juice.”

A versatile spud

Sweet and savoury dreams, both, are made with it as chefs want to be more innovative. Shikha Nath, director, Bombay Brasserie shares, “This root vegetable has been used for years across several parts of India. Each region has their own way of preparing it. Chefs these days are using it to make hummus, pancakes, soups, salads and even desserts.” And while naysayers point to the fact that’s it’s just a phase which will pass on, not everyone agrees. As in the case of Gracian de Souza, chef and founder of Porto & Poie. He says, “Sweet potato adds a new dimension to the carbohydrate family and because carbs are only thought of in terms of starch like rice and regular potato, it’s becoming more common. Also, it brings in more earthiness due to its starchy texture. I definitely see chefs using it more in their menus. For me the best way of cooking it, is wrapping it in a tin foil, marinating it in Portuguese piri piri rub and then slow cooking it on a Weber oven or on charcoal.” Dev Rawat, executive chef at Tippling Street, puts it all down to its versatility. He says, “It suits every palate and makes for a perfect ingredient for the fitness conscious. While abroad, its intake has been on the rise for a while now, it’s only now that we have woken up to its benefits. And this is evident as regular fries are being replaced by sweet potato fries on most menus.”

Emphasis on local food has helped...

While we have always looked to the West for inspiration and a cue on trends that’s slowly changing. Chef partner Thomas Zacharias, The Bombay Canteen, says, “We introduced sweet potato on our menu a little over a year ago in the form of a Charred Sweet Potato Paratha served along with our version of Maa ki Dal topped with Topli Paneer. Incorporating it into our menu ties in with our philosophy of showcasing local yet indigenous Indian produce, which for the longest time had been overshadowed by western vegetables like kale and asparagus in most restaurant menus.”

‘Vegetable-focused trends don’t last long’

Chef Thomas feels that over the years, we’ve been more enamoured by Western dishes and ingredients and have lost sight of the richness of what we have here in India. He adds, “Sweet potato itself might not enjoy the limelight forever considering vegetable-focused trends usually move on from one to the next quickly. However, there is a movement in India towards cooking with local produce, which are intrinsically a part of our culture and terrain. I feel that this is not just a fad and something we will see more of.” According to him the spud can be used in a Sindhi tuk, made into a mash or even boiled but charring the sweet potato brings out the best in its flavour as the smokiness from the charcoal complements the sweetness of the vegetable beautifully.

While no one disputes its current rise in popularity, chefs seem to be divided on whether that too will change. Viraf Patel, executive chef and business head, Toast & Tonic says, “Due to its dense composition and ability to satiate hunger for a long time, sweet potatoes are a popular ‘fasting food’ in our country, and make a great accompaniment for celebratory meals or just a perfect side to bring out the sweetness in game meat like roasted duck. Its creamy texture along with great nutritive value, makes it an ideal ingredient for a soup. I don’t think it’s a fad but a movement that will go on.” Chef Liton Bhakta of the Daily Bar & Kitchen on the other hand feels otherwise. He says, “Sweet potatoes can easily be classified as part of a fad diet. Currently, many people are switching from potatoes to sweet potatoes thanks to their health benefits, but even they should be consumed in season and in moderation.” While executive chef, The Chocolate Spoon Company Pvt Ltd, Amit Bhatia points out that it’s ideal for both the fitness conscious as well as diabetics.

Chefs tell us how to cook it

Head Chef Rishim Sachdeva, Oliver Bar & Kitchen recommends making crackers with sweet potatoes, while chef says the best way to cook it  is to slice them, marinate it with herbs and spices, wrap it in foil and bake it in an oven and serve it topped with spicy guacamole. If you want to make it more interesting, you can also top this up with a fried egg. He concludes, “I like to think of this as a sweet potato toast of sorts. Very nutritious and yummy too!”