A. Rama Nayak’s Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding
A hotel that serves lip-smacking south Indian meals on a banana leaf for fifty bucks, this is the first Udipi food joint in Mumbai. Started by whom I consider the father of Udipi, A. Rama Nayak, and established in 1942, A. Rama Nayak is a home away from home for south Indians. As you enter, don’t be surprised to find standing instructions written everywhere, "Please buy your tokens in advance"; "Unused coupons can be used next time"; "Try eating in leaf in Indian way, without spoon"; "Plate meal is ideal for the blue collar man"; "Udipi means good food". And it’s precisely this simple and homely ambiance that pulls you in.
The hotel is divided into two parts: the plate section (Rs 16 per plate meal, with curd, Rs 15, without curd) and the plantain leaf section (Rs 40 per meal, everything unlimited). In the plate (thali) meal, everything is limited, except rasam and sambar. The pickles are made fresh every two days and meals are cooked twice a day—no leftovers are served, ever. South Indian meals offer a balanced diet: two cups of rice, three puris or two chappatis, one curry, one raita, one pulse dish, pappad, buttermilk, sambar, rasam, dal, pickle and curd. The calorie count for this feast is 1,500 to 1,600.
Satish Nayak, son of the founder, says: "We have no sun setting period; value for money is what we look at. What was served 55 years back, we have maintained the same quantity and quality. It is the complete south Indian meal which attracts the customers."
1st Floor, L.B.S. Market Building, Matunga (C.Rly); 10:30am-3pm, 7-10pm
Idli House
South India's ultimate breakfast, the steamed rice idli, has earned an exclusive place in Mumbai's food world thanks to hotels like Idli House, which are completely dedicated to idli aficionados. Set around the busy King circle area of Matunga, Idli House is popular with students, given that they get a nominal concession to buy these steamed and soft puffed rice cakes. Besides being affordable, the menu has a variety of 16 idlis with coffee and other accompaniments like sambar, rasam and coconut chutney. The khotto served in cups of jackfruit leaves and mudho (cups in kedki leaves) are a must try. This is an idli tucked into a triangular cup made of jackfruit leaves. As a steaming plate of khottu arrives, the sweet aroma of jackfruit fills the air and you know the delicious, hot idli is waiting inside its special cup. One plate consists of a single khottu. Then the waiter generously drops dollops of homemade butter on it, making each bite just melt in your mouth. Try it with some mulaga podi (dried spicy chutney), coconut chutney and sambar. What a feeling! A mudho is another variation of idli; it comes wrapped in a banana leaf. Like its cousin the khottu, it is a delectable delight.
All variations of the simple rice batter preparation -- the now famous idli -- like the rava idli to the sweet, tangy cucumber idli to the spicy masala idli -- are available at Idli House and each variation of the idli costs anywhere between Rs 8 to 16 per plate.
Next to Vasant Breezy Chamber, King Circle, Matunga (E)
Modern Hindu Hotel
Eighty eight years and still going strong. Modern Hindu Hotel, packed on the fourth floor of Apeejay Chambers, Fort, has been living up to the concept of traditional south Indian food served on the banana leaf. It would be better to take the high wooden steps than the lift as you can build an appetite and do justice to the meal that you are about to experience. After you have taken a coupon from the counter you will pass the spotlessly clean kitchen to your left and come to two rooms with old style wooden chairs and tables which can seat 22 people at a time. Take a seat by the veranda and enjoy the charming view of the heritage building tops of the Fort area.
From corporate professionals to celebrities and several notable hoteliers, you can spot them all at Modern Hindu Hotel downing an unlimited lunch meal that consists of bhaji, sambar, dal, rasam (different everyday), pickle and gulab jamun to wrap it up. The specialty here is that their rice is cooked in copper vessels to add that extra zing to your serving. Modern feeds more than 225 people daily on week days and don’t be surprised if you have to wait in a line to have your meal during peak lunch hours. Simple, light, tasty, hygienic and homely, Modern Hindu Hotel is a must-visit.
12 Wallace Street, Apeejay Chambers, 4th floor, Behind Excelsior Theatre, Fort. Lunch: 12-2:30pm; Dinner: 7:15-9-pm
Mani’s Lunch Home
A popular place, Mani’s Lunch Home in central Mumbai is considered to be one of the coolest south Indian joints in Matunga. At Mani’s, you can discuss everything from world politics and national affairs to cricket and Bollywood gossip over piping hot upma, which is their best seller. While it seats just about 20 people, it prides in quality with modest pricing. Started in 1937 by V.S. Mani Iyer, Mani’s Lunch Home serves an array of delightful south Indian delicacies -- idli, medu wada, potato wada, upma, sheera, pongal, in the morning session and in addition kela bajji, vegetable bonda, dal wada, rasam wada, dahi wada, onion pakoda, Mysore bonda, in the evening session and vast varieties of crisp dosa. All these served with limitless accompaniments of chutney and spicy delicious Madras onion sambar. One can consume as much as chutney and sambar as desired without paying any extra cost. This is the only restaurant in Mumbai that serves chutney and sambar in limitless quantities happily free of charge. In addition, during the afternoon session varieties of rice such as curd rice, bisibellabath, tomato rice, lemon rice and tamarind rice are also served.
On Sundays, Mani’s prepares a special southern dosa called adai, in the evening, served with pure fresh butter accompanied by chutney and sambar. Geeta Rangamani, principal of IES School, says, "I have been coming here for 30 years now and there's nothing to beat their upma and filter coffee."
153-C, Mhaskar Building Matunga (C.Rly); +91 (0) 98 2412 7188; 6:30am-9pm, Monday is a holiday.
Sharada Bhuvan
It's right opposite Matunga (East) station. You can't miss it, even though it's tucked away in a little corner of Bhandarkar Road. At this unassuming, no-frills place, you'll find three-decade old teak furniture (but sturdy as heck), waiters in lungis, old kota tile floors and the owner at the cash counter who smiles only if needed. The kitchen is dark and dingy but the aromas of the flavours wafting through it can leave you in a tizzy. Their masala dosa is highly recommended—the potato is cooked to perfection with the right amount of ginger, green chillies and seasoning. Their upma is fluffy and when accompanied with chutney and sambhar, be assured to be transported to heaven. I would give a 5/5 for their prompt service.
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