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Should brands hire a star designer?

Experts opine that a celebrity face definitely lends gravitas to the label...

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(Clockwise from top left) Hedi Slimane, Anthony Vaccarello, Olivier Rousteing, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Riccardo Tisci and Tom Ford
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Celine’s new creative director Hedi Slimane is the December cover star of Vanity Fair France. Clinching the No. 1 slot on the annual list of the 50 most influential French people in the world, he even surpassed French President Emmanuel Macron, who sits at No 5. While his first collection at Celine may have been booed by critics, his controversial appointment definitely brought in the eyeballs.

It’s quite likely that he’ll bring in phenomenal amount of PR in the coming weeks. Today the brand message is not so much about the shape of the bag or the inspiration behind a pair of stilettos or the notes of a perfume, but the life of its designer played out on in vibrant details on his or her social media handles. Balmain’s designer Olivier Rousteing’s insta feed is a fusillade of his caviar-soaked party images with his Kardashian beauties and the likes of Rihanna. Nicolas Ghesquiere of Louis Vuitton often posts images of his dogs or his holiday images from the sunny Ibiza. Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello often posts his throwback pics with longtime muse and friend supermodel Anja Rubik. Does a mega-wattage persona help in impacting the fortunes of a brand?  We got designers to share their take on how much does a designer’s popularity help drive audience’s interest into the brand. 

A PROVEN TRACK RECORD

Prayag Menon, stylist 

Star designers have proven track records of work that’s popular/sensationalist and profitable. This helps a luxury label to gain traction as well as future clients based on the designer’s fan base. However at times this can also backfire. Case in point: the Céline saga of Phoebe Philo vs Hedi Slimane.   

CONSUMERS KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT 

Nishka Lulla, designer  

When you get someone who’s already known, consumers already know what to expect. For example, Tom Ford for Gucci was a great marriage. Maybe Celine under Hedi Slimane wants to move into a new space.

CAN’T KILL BRAND’S USP 

Rajat Tangri, designer 

The star appeal definitely helps, but the sensibilities of the designer and the brand need to be in sync. However, it can go either way. Celine under Phoebe Philo was more anti-fit while Hedi is edgy and structured. I feel you can’t kill the USP of the brand.

IT’S VALUE ADDITION 

Akshay Tyagi, stylist 

It’s the outreach you are creating — aligning their personalities, clientele and vision they have to offer and the message they bring to the brand is the added value. Riccardo Tisci at Burberry comes with a different vibe but it’s working well together.

A YOUTHFUL TAKE

Aastha Sharma, stylist 

Hedi Slimane offers a younger take on Celine and in a couple of months, we’ll realise once the brand’s performance details are out. For a heritage house, it’s also important to create a diversity. Most brands do their study before such hiring and often they want to change their core image.

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