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Segueing into Jerusalem

Vaibhav Mehta recounts his experience of riding 'an electronic stallion' into the 5000-year-old city of Jerusalem

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(Clockwise) Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount; the old border between Israel and Jordan; touring Jerusalem on the Segway; view of the old city Photos: Vaibhav Mehta
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I must have been about six years old when my grandfather let go of his support and set me free on the two wheels of my tiny purple cycle in a quaint street in Jaipur. Shedding fear, I rode out as fast as I could while my grandfather came chasing behind me, concerned about having unleashed this reckless wild side of me; a side I thought I had buried deep inside and forgotten, until recently.

It came rushing back after 27 years, on a Segway ride on a 2-3 hour guided tour across the historic streets of old and new Jerusalem. It felt like rediscovering freedom again except now, I appreciated it a lot more as an adult tethered to social norms and responsibilities. The Segway – a two-wheeled, battery-operated electric stallion (I prefer calling it that instead of a vehicle) works on the self-balancing principle. Once charged overnight, it can do up to four hours at a stretch and can reach a maximum speed of 20kmph.

Since the Segway works on the mechanics of counter balance, it required me to keep my body straight and hands firmly holding the handlebars. I had to lean forward to propel forward and pull back like you'd pull the reins of a horse to brake. True to its name, it's an effortless and smooth ride even on cobbled streets.

Jerusalem is the largest city in Israel and generously filled with tourists. The joy, beauty and the thrill of the ride was greatly accentuated by the backdrop of the 5,000 years of history that Jerusalem provided. Over the years, it's been the epicentre of invasions. It's been attacked 52 times, captured and recaptured 44 times, besieged 23 times, and destroyed twice; starting from the Babylonians to the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantine Empire, the Muslims, the Crusaders, the Ottomans and finally the British, before the state of Israel was formed, in 1948. The city of Jerusalem as it stands today was the border between Jordan and Israel until 1967, and was under constant crossfire for nearly 20 years. We were riding our Segway at the place, which, until 50 years ago, was a battlefield border between Israel and Jordan.

The size of the town appears as if it were designed to be covered on a Segway. A 15-minute ride from the old train station (now buzzing with restaurants and cafés) takes you to the historical, old walls of the city. It's inside these walls that Jesus Christ had the Last Supper and was crucified; the most important church in Christianity – the Church of the Holy Sepulchre rests here. Inside these same walls, Muhammad is known to have ascended to heaven in the night journey; the third most important mosque (after Mecca and Medina) in Islam – The Al-Aqsa mosque lies beneath these walls. The oldest temple of Judaism once stood inside these walls, a part of which is now the sacred Jewish Western Wall. It felt overwhelming and exhilarating to be standing inside these historic walls, fortified by so many religions. I just stood there still imagining the centuries that had transpired in the very same spot where I was peacefully riding an engine.

The old city is divided into four distinct quarters – Jewish, Arab, Christian, and Armenian. There was a clear transition of culture and architecture as one moved between them. But above everything, there is something I experienced in the old city of Jerusalem that is extremely rare to find and feel. It's this overwhelming sense of inescapable belief, faith and energy that permeates the atmosphere. I have no doubt it arises from the collective faith of such diverse religions living in close proximity and harmony with each other. It mingled with the slight nip in the air as I sat there, soaking it all in.

I could have stood there forever in this incredible atmosphere, but I had miles to go, as I continued my ride, now ahead of the guide, confidently leading the way.

Details of how to hire- http://jerusalemsegwaytours.com

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