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Restaurant review: 'Bombay Vintage', The city of dreams on your plate

SoBo-based Bombay Vintage, a new all-day diner and restobar, celebrates old world charm with their decor and fusion food

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If you are open to trying classic Mumbai staples like vada pav, pav bhaji, sabudana in a new avatar, this is the place for you.
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Bombay, now Mumbai, is a melting pot of different tastes and aromas. It’s complex, vibrant and yet hard to define because of its contrasting flavours and textures and ample variety to choose from. That’s why Bombay Vintage, SoBo’s new all-day diner and restobar has a tall order delivering a slice of the city on your plate. 

Ambience: Located next door to Phillips Antiques in Colaba, a place that’s synonymous with old world charm, Bombay Vintage has an ideal location. Divided into an upper and lower section — the former has a dining space and a bar area while the latter functions as an extended dining area. Head up the staircase, and you come face-to-face with yourself thanks to an intricately carved mirror that hangs there along with black and white shots of popular landmarks of what was then Bombay. An old-time radio and telephone further add that vintage touch that’s hard to miss. Photographs of popular theatres like Liberty and Eros also adorn the walls along with some old world clocks and crockery.

Menu: The food is a mix of coastal picks, Mumbai favourites and American and Continental-style dishes. Our first starter was the Kheema Baida Roti served with cucumber salad and mint relish (Rs 295). It had the look and feel of a quesadilla but tasted like an improved version of the street favourite with the cardamom masking the meaty taste of the kheema. The  Tossed Masala appetiser comprising peanuts, moong dal and chana dal (Rs 125) is a good starter that went well with the drinks. The Vada Pav Sliders served with cilantro mayo, paprika mayo and cole slaw (Rs 145) pays a worthy tribute to the Mumbai favourite. For the main course, we tried the tiffin curry — Prawns Moilee gravy  with steamed rice (Rs 325). True to its theme, the dish draws inspiration from the Mumbai dabbawalas, who feed hungry officegoers every day. And is even served in a tiffin by a waiter dressed as a dabbawala. The coconut based gravy and the steamed rice can easily feed two people. The Chicken Roulade served with sundried tomato kulcha and butter masala sauce (Rs 345) tastes like their version of a butter chicken. While the rice and the roulade complement each other, the kulcha seems like an afterthought and did not really have a place on the plate. Vegetarians should try the Continental Pav Bhaji served with foccacia fingers with pickled jalapenos and onions for that extra tang  (`245). From the bar menu, we recommend you try the white wine sangria, whenever that makes it there, or opt for the Mudslide with kahlua, vodka and Baileys Cream (Rs 390) or the Black Grape and Sage Martini with vodka, black grapes and fresh sage (Rs 340). We ended the meal with a Mascarpone Sandwich with Rabdi (Rs 245) a twist on the Shahi Tukda.

Verdict: If you are open to trying classic Mumbai staples like vada pav, pav bhaji, sabudana in a new avatar, this is the place for you. Innovative, experimental yet traditional without losing its essence, that’s the best way to describe our experience there.

AT: Bombay Vintage, Oriental Mansion building, ground floor, opposite Regal Cinema, Colaba.

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