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From Chanel to Nachiket Barve, march of the Nymphs floods runways

Mythical goddesses are having a moment right now...

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Given the current socio-political turmoil and the ongoing volatile #MeToo scenario, fashion sees the resurgence of strong goddess looks on the runway signalling the idea of the return of the ultimate female figurines. Formidable mythical deities and fantastical figures from Greek, Roman and other civilisations have deeply inspired various resort and spring summer runway pieces for 2018. Closer home, we have seen these demi-goddesses referenced from time to time and have become the brand iconography of mega brands like Tarun Tahiliani and Gaurav Gupta. Internationally, the iconic Versace Medusa has seduced the luxury market for decades now. Vionnet, Madame Grès and other French houses from the 1920s have single-handedly resurrected the draped silhouettes seen on the Roman sculptures.

For Chanel’s Resort 2018 collection, Karl Lagerfeld turned to ancient Greece for inspiration, a season before (Fall 2017) and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior had looked to the tarot deck. Fashion writer Nishat Fatima says, “If you look at pop culture influences, Wonder Woman with its Amazonian army was a blockbuster, and that was followed by Justice League. When the biggest houses look to mythology and superstition, it’s very likely to influence fashion at all levels. Is it having a moment? Right now, a small one, but fashion watchers should keep alert for coming seasons. The interesting thing about goddesses is that there are enough to represent every emotional facet, from love to war, which gives designers enough leeway to play around with. Plus, if you look at the traditional drape-y silhouette, it’s extremely flattering. Win-win.”

Tales to remember

FDCI columnist Asmita Aggarwal underscores the whole edifice of house of Versace label by Gianni Versace, the original king of fashion was based on Greek mythology and its stories of valour and greed. “Though this is not a new phenomenon, Gianni was known to have been inspired by Medusa, the goddess with snakes in her hair and one who could turn gazers into stone. Valentino couture collection has Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2017 also paying a tribute to goddesses from Pandora (who was the first woman created by Greek gods and got special gifts from everyone, the story goes that she opened the box and it revealed death, that’s why the adage Pandora’s box). But that’s not all. Even Gia Coppola in a film made in association with Gucci captured the ancient myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, a love story, based this time in New York City of today (it starred Doillon, daughter of Jane Birkin in one of the four-part series),” says Asmita.

“There is an enduring mystery that mythology has along with intrigue and it mixed up with all the various emotions we as humans feel — hate, love, anger and derision, and that gets magnified through storytelling making it a tale to remember,” adds Asmita.

A nod to romance, fantasy and magic

Knowingly or not, everyone from Chanel and Valentino to Nachiket Barve have incorporated mythological elements into their collections. In the past, we’ve seen Wendell Rodricks and Alberta Ferretti spearhead this trend through the years and it doesn’t look like its going away anytime soon.

Archana Walavalkar, Co-Founder, Creative Director, StyleCracker feels that it’s all about the romance, fantasy and magic! “Playing with drapes, fabric and form, are a few qualities that inspire and appeal to designers making them take the mythological route. For example, in Hindu mythology, the draping of an unstitched cloth is what eventually became the sari. And everyone and their grandmothers has worn one simply because it’s a piece that gets re-invented year on year. It’s the most versatile and flattering silhouette that has been beautifully interpreted across international runways too. Designers can truly let their imagination flow and take its own course with mythology, which is the ultimate dream!  Today, we see a bunch of ethereal white maxi dresses which is a modern take on the trend for spring/summer 2018 . Sheer, cut-work, 3-D floral embroidery, lace, appliqué, chiffon, ruching all made their way down the runway — all contemporary looking, but still inspired by mythical Goddesses in more ways than one,” says Archana.

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