It’s all about the shine and shimmer this fall winter — from Halpern’s unapologetic and uninhibited take on multi-coloured sequins to Ashish’s happy sparkly separates to Temperley’s fully beaded numbers. Besides the head-to-toe metallics, a lot of designers toyed with multi-toned and rainbow stripes — Christopher Bailey at his last outing at Burberry paid a glowing tribute to the gay community by incorporating LGBTQ colours in the label’s classic plaid. Multi-coloured graphic stripes were also seen at JW Anderson, Richard Malone and Warm.
Besides a push on the colour play, designers also went back to reinventing the surfaces — for instance, Simone Rocha sent out dresses in laminated tulle and JW Anderson x Converse collab saw PVC coated sneakers.
Another trend which emerged was of diamond quilting seen at MM6 by Maison Margiela, Huishan Zhang and Peter Pilotto. Here are some of the highlights...
DAVID KOMA
VIBE: 60S
Highlights: Designer David Koma fell in love with the photography of 19th-century artist Edward S Curtis and the imagery captured of Native American tribes. His push on tailoring of the buttery leather skirts and coat minis with shearling accents stood out and so did his use of feather applique accents. Also, his placement of multi-hued metallics on a slashed white dress and fully-beaded minis had rock and roll, femme fatale written all
over them.
ASHISH UK
VIBE: RAINBOW
Highlights: Designer Ashish has been crafting sparkly clothing season after season with cool letterings and a tongue-in-cheek wink. This time he took a dig at the cesspool of consumerism by turning logos upside down — American Excess, Masturbate, and Viva(L’Amore). Besides the rainbow hued numbers, his kitschy take on florals and his maxi dresses in patched velvet and sequins stood out.
HALPERN
VIBE: DISCO
Highlights: Michael Halpern envisioned a glitter-loving-glamazon who enjoys the bold and daring sequins and goes all out. His take-no-prisoners approach to sequins resulted in a glittery fury of boxy minis, colour-blocked jumpsuits, off-shoulder gowns slashed at the thigh and teamed with matching shiny boots. It was amazing how he incorporated zebra stripes into his shimmery canvas making it a kaleidoscopic epiphany.
TEMPERLEY LONDON
Inspiration: British Army Special Air Service
Highlights: The Temperley temptress is all about the attitude. Of course, there were shiny evening numbers but they were punctuated by airmail stamps, safety-buckle belts, fuel-gauge patches, and a parachute-strap motif. The olive-on-olive pairing and mixing evening with flight element was a cool idea though it had an unmistakable Balmain undercurrent.
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