Khadi rebooted

This month, Prime Minister Narendra Modi proudly announced that khadi sales had doubled over one year and called upon individuals to purchase khadi products. Emphasising that there would be a month-long discount on khadi products from October 2, he stated that the income from handloom and khadi sales go to the poor weavers or their widows. “So I urge you all to give space to khadi in your homes this Diwali,” the prime minister said in his Mann Ki Baat address on All India Radio. He thanked people for having responded generously to a similar appeal he made last year.

Khadi sales may have gone up, but the fact that the fabric needs a breath-of-fresh-air modernity and newness to find wide sections of takers, would be stating the obvious. Fashion is about today. It’s about taking something specific from the past and updating it with a dash of contemporary edge.

A few steps have been take in this direction. For instance, this year FDCI hosted a show, From Huts to the High Street in Ahmedabad, which featured khadi infused collections by designers Rohit Bal, Anamika Khanna and Rajesh Pratap. We spoke to our leading designers on how they aim to give khadi a contemporary twist...

A timeless classic 
Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh says, “Khadi is a timeless classic. It is versatile and has immense character. We have worked with khadi ranging from up to 500 counts on the yarn to make hand-stitched shirts to recently khadi denim with selvedge for denim jeans. Khadi is a pure Indian textile.”
Rajesh’s last summer collection was primarily an experiment in khadi in various forms, natural indigo dyed, linen blended, selvedge handloom khadi, denim khadi both kora and indigo dyed in a range of counts.

Versatile fabric
Khadi and its revival has been one of the first fabric development projects designer Anju Modi ever worked on. She shares, “Khadi and its quality is defined by the counts in an inch, the higher the count, the better the quality. In fact, the super fine quality of khadi (which is incidentally more expensive than fine silk) has been a fabric.”

Modi has continually used khadi in her ready-to-wear and couture collections. She adds, “It is the way the fabric behaves, drapes and takes colour, that draws me to it again and again. It is comfortable, yet luxurious, and makes the wearer feel at ease even in the most elaborate ensembles. The versatility of how we can use and manipulate the fabric, I suppose makes it a popular fabric choice for me and many of my designer colleagues.” 
For a reinvented and rebooted version of Khadi, the designer enjoys adding layers and textures to the fabric. Gold foiling is a technique that she especially enjoys using in her collections as it adds details and some texture to the surface of the fabric. “Zari and thread-work embroideries also reflect and present well on khadi. Revisiting of traditional silhouettes like the dhoti lend a rustic vibe to the fabric, and pair that with a sheer jacket to bring a modern twist!” she says. 

Breathable 
Designer Varun Bahl says, “Khadi is known globally as an Indian fabric and we can do so much to make it a trendy and designer option for people to wear. It’s very versatile and breathable which makes it extremely comfortable to work with. I’ve used variations of khadi fabrics in some of my designs with a play on multiple textures with contemporary silhouettes, and given it a touch of my signature surface ornamentation through intricate floral thread work, zardozi and bead work to give this classic look modern appeal.”

Designer Anavila Misra known for her handwoven saris says, “Khadi is one of the most comfortable fabrics and can be used beautifully for making contemporary garments. A lot of designers are already working with this fabric. It’s also gaining a lot of importance in international fashion boutiques/stores.”

Options for beautiful pairing 
Designer duo Rimple and Harpreet Narula say, “Khadi silks and cottons are very versatile fabrics, have an amazing fall especially when cut on bias. We use them in layers with our signature zardozi embroidered long jackets so as to give them a modern twist. They pair up really well with other handloom fabrics such as Chanderi and Bhagalpuri silks and add a rustic charm to the ensemble.”