Jewellery Trends 2014

When you think Cartier, you think animals, and when you think Tiffany, you think engagement ring. Trends are design directions. They lead the way to creating a distinguishing factor for brands. At the two-day seminar organised by Trendvision Jewellery+Forecasting and The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), aspiring designers and the luxury, retail gems and jewellery industries discussed the major forces that will design and shape the future of the industry.

Colours and rarities

The rise of rare and unusual gemstones is imminent. Multi-coloured gemstones do not offer the same enormous intrinsic value as the rarest diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds, but their allure is in their price and their design potential. Increased demand for individualistic jewellery, coupled with price-consciousness has meant designers are turning to little-known gems for both unusual colour effects and a semblance of affordability. The rising prices of natural precious gemstones have put pressure on jewellers to find alternatives. “Indian cinemas and celebrities bear a greater influence on trends. The movie, Jodha Akbar was entirely decorated with jewellery. Indian manufacturers need to develop more theme-based jewellery pieces, which can work in both Indian and international markets. Amrapali, the Indian jewellery company is using a lot of unusual coloured stones,” says Sangeeta Dewan, Senior Design Consultant, Titan Industries. This demand for colour signifies that other gemstones have attracted attention and the likes of paraiba tourmalines, spinels, rubellites, pink sapphires and topaz are now increasingly sought after.

Tell a story

While price and preciousness change with fashion, jewellery moves at a sedate pace. The last decade has seen the art of the jeweller really flourish. Design and narrative have become so important that the unimaginative diamond solitaire is almost a thing of the past. Instead, designers aim to tell a story, create a mood or capture a moment, in the same way a painter would approach his work. In the words of designer Farah Khan, “design is an activity that translates ideas into reality. Design is never singular; it is the effort of culminated professionals”. The younger, urban and fashion-conscious population in India demands exclusivity and style, when it comes to jewellery. Today’s jewellery designs reflect the same gems, shapes, and motifs of bygone eras, but with a twist. Toranj Mehta, Head of Marketing at Forevermark, De Beers says, “Too much choice leads to no choice. Designing is imaginary; we need to design, not replicate. We are moving towards designing a new future”. With new techniques for mounting gemstones, such as invisible and tension settings for diamonds, a unique mixture of gemstones in pavé settings, motifs of butterflies and dragons, and a slightly less-fantastical version of Art Nouveau—today, innovation in jewellery celebrates inspiration and creativity.

Less is more

With a shift in ethnic influences, economic constraints, macro-market influences and a preference for style over sentiments, the trend is clearly moving towards minimalistic designs. These, in fact, can make bigger statements than one may think. This minimalist trend is contemplative and re-examines the cultural roots of today’s rapidly transforming world. “Using soft, subtle tones such as grey-green, borealis greys, fresh jade green and a startling hint of Chinese lacquer red, this trend direction is sophisticated and meticulous in style,” says Vaishali Banerjee, Country Manager-India, Platinum Guild International.

I, Me, Myself

Individualism and self-expression are the key words, today. Pieces that reflect surrealism, ludicrous fantasy and the imagination of alternative universes are in demand. This exhibits the ever-changing, multi-faceted and complex moods of today’s consumerism. It explores the resistance of stereotypes and challenges conventions. “Today, women look for modularity and multifunctionality in pieces; asymmetry and imperfect shapes make for great style statements,” says Farah. True luxury, she concludes, is having something not everyone can have.