With mixed gender shows becoming a norm, After Hrs debates if there's a future for solo shows...
At the recently concluded London menswear week, labels like Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Coach, Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour were conspicuous by their absence. With most labels deciding to showcase their menswear and womenswear offerings together, does it herald the end of menswear weeks?
Not justified in India
Jaspreet Chandok, Head of Fashion, IMG Reliance says, "Women consume fashion from the runway in greater numbers than men and while the menswear market is continuously evolving, it will take some time before men’s fashion weeks achieve some stability. While we do see a trend of mixed fashion weeks emerging, I feel that there will again be a de-linking of the fashion weeks as the menswear market keeps growing. The Indian designer industry is dominated by bridal and the market for designer menswear is not large enough to justify a dedicated week, however there are enough great designers and brilliant work being done in menswear to justify their right of focus in the two premier fashion weeks one of them being Lakmé Fashion Week that exist in the country. In face this season, the Sustainable and Indian Handloom Day’s marquee show features a menswear story with three leading designer labels."
Opportunity for up-and-coming designers
Designer Ashish N Soni who's often showcased both menswear and womenswear together on the runway attributes it to the bad economy. "It's a case of bad economy. Having said that fashion weeks work today very well more for the new talent. A Tom Ford doesn't need that massive break by showing at London fashion week. Big brands don't really need fashion week for sale. Showcasing mixed offerings makes sense. Men's weeks will not cease to exist as they are the perfect platform for debut designers who need to garner press. By and by the numbers might decrease but eventually only ones will survive, which will gather maximum visibility. In India we'll have to adapt to similar marketing ideas as our consumer is evolved. The sooner we implement, the better it will be in the long run."
Menswear is restricted
Designer Troy Costa says, "It's a good thing for Asian/Indian designers now. I was in Italy a few weeks ago, they invited me to showcase in Milan. That never happened in the past. Today fashion federations are more available to grade you, meet you and see your collections. How much can you show in menswear space, which hasn't been seen before. It's not going to give you visibility. Businessmen like François-Henri Pinault are more keen on sales and not in media attention. Media loves shock value in clothing but how many men will wear a tiger print denim bomber jacket? Menswear is always restricted. I think it makes great business sense to do a combined show. Everyone's holding on to their purse strings, doing presentations, saving on cost. In Milan, a lot of designers showcased at their own private premises which cuts the cost by half."
Need for a menswear week
Designer Kunal Rawal says, "It's the need of the hour. It's more structured internationally, which is not the case here. Today there are far too many menswear designers but menswear hasn't been taken seriously. As far as sending out womenswear pieces on the ramp is concerned, it's the designer's prerogative whether they want to show womenswear. I'd agree that a glamour quotient is demanded by sponsors."
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