How Indian designers are reviving the handloom sector

As Prime Minister Narendra Modi lands in Chennai to be part of the National Handloom Day celebrations, there arises the pertinent question as to how designers and boutiques across India can help the handloom sector.

Many globally renowned designers in south India, like Gaurang Shah, Vivek Karunakaran and Shravan Kumar Ramaswamy whose clients include a long list of Indian celebs, have been consistently working with weavers and handlooms. Applauding the creation of a National Handloom Day to throw the limelight on a dying craft, Hyderbad-based designer and textile revivalist Gaurang Shah says, “It’s motivational and the most satisfying moment for a designer like me as the Prime Minister dedicates this day for handlooms. It will go a long way in handlooms marketability not only in India but also around the world. Above all, it is a moment of celebration for designers, the handloom workers, as well as weavers who spent tireless hours in their looms to create these beautiful fabrics.”

Designer Shravan Kumar Ramaswamy who is also based in Hyderabad, calls himself a ‘textile revivalist and artist’ and specialises only in handlooms. He has made it his life goal to help weavers and his much sought-after collections include the use of handlooms like Kalamkari, Mangalagiri, Madhavaram, Narayanpet, Chirala, Venkatagiri and Chunnur khadi. He says, “I am working on the revival of 16th century designs and age-old handlooms. I’ve showcased everywhere from Paris to the New York Fashion Week and Vancouver Fashion Week. They all tell me they want to see only original weaves and designs and tell me not to contemporise. That’s what I believe in as well. India is handlooms!” Ramaswamy, in fact, holds an annual event titled ‘An Ode to the Weaves and Weavers’ in Hyderabad.
 

Designer Shravan Kumar Ramaswamy

Kalamkari has been one of the favourite fabrics for designers in the south. Chennai-based designer Vivek Karunakaran tells us that he’s currently working on a collection where the emphasis is on Kalamkari fabrics. “I am curating a collection titled ‘sea biscuit’ and I’m looking forward to use this textile in a very contemporary and modern manner. It’s juxtaposing the beauty of the craft and the possibility of a fresh approach. It’ll be a luxurious and stylish sporty line of clothing, inspired by horses and equestrian sport,” explains Karunakaran.
Karunakaran has also created a collection for the Handloom Export Promotion Council of India which was previewed at the international textile fair. Ask him why he works with Kalamkari and he replies, “I have always been an ambassador for this art and textile. We travelled to Sri Kalahasti, stayed with the craftsmen and created this collection after understanding the nuances.”

While designers are trying to help handloom weavers in their own way, they opine that we need to do more for these craftsmen. “I really do feel from the bottom of my heart that the Ministry of Textiles is not doing enough to promote handlooms or work on innovation. This is the need of the hour!” emphasises Karunakaran. “The role that designers play here is bridge the gap between the weaver/ artist and today's end user. We bring in functionality and design overlaid with style and comfort.”

Celebrities across India like Kirron Kher, Vidya Balan, Sonam Kapoor and Pranita Subhash, have also been endorsing handlooms by wearing them at events. “I hope​ the National Handloom Day will further accelerate the growth of handlooms and motivate many young generations from the weaving community to pursue this art and widen their interest in not only producing them but also in enhancing the handloom brand value amongst fashion consumers across all age groups,” adds Gaurang.