Some New York Fashion Week runway looks have ignited a debate. After Hrs asks designers — is this self-expression or simply for recall value?
At the recently concluded New York Fashion Week, Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver designed two-way boots for his spring 2017 collection sending Instagram into a tizzy. Jeremy Scott, who always draws on pop culture, showcased a condom dress and Thom Browne, who’s no stranger to theatrics, sent out some bizarre headgear. Gypsy Sport’s animalistic hairdos and feathery necklaces evoked a jungle jamboree. All of these examples bring us to the question — when is it about self-expression and when does it border on downright provocative? When does a designer make caustic social commentary and when is it done purely for the shock value? We ask around...
‘Design can’t be right or wrong’
- Anand Bhushan
A black jacket may be bizarre for me, but the most wearable thing for somebody else. Creativity doesn’t really have any boundaries and design can’t be right or wrong. Scott’s ideology is based on pop culture which he’s translated into his designs. I’m not a big fan of Hood By Air. Having said that, design is also about making a social commentary.
‘People won’t remember a T-shirt unless it has a recall value’
- Monisha Jaising
I don’t think the condom dress was for an Instagram post. There was a thought behind it. Perhaps, Jeremy Scott wanted to express himself. It’s about freedom of expression on the ramp and making a social commentary. People won’t remember a T-shirt unless it has a recall value and designers tend to exaggerate things in fashion for that. However, the offerings in the store for the actual consumers are watered-down. Thierry Mugler did these power shoulders in the ’80s, but at the store they weren’t so pronounced.
‘I’m glad surrealism exists today’
- Nimish Shah
Surrealism and fashion have always gone together. Schiaparelli is a key example. Another vision that comes to mind is the Maison Margiella mask, which is artistic to a certain degree. Editorially, Hood By Air shoes are a hit especially since when everything has become so commercial and is all about value for money. When craft comes to an artisanal level, it becomes sculpture on the ramp. Moschino’s condom dress is borderline graduation project and I consider it textbook design to an extent. Having said that, recession and its aftermath ensured that people stopped experimenting. Three years ago, there were no trends. I’m glad surrealism exists today.
‘It’s a double-edged sword’
- Masaba Gupta
Personally, I look up to people who think out-of-the-box. For someone like me, who does pret and wearable clothes, it’s awe-inspiring to see such works. It’s commendable to see that some designers’ thought process is not basic. Having said that, I’d like to see the crazy on the ramp as well as the normal version tweaked for off the ramp. It definitely makes for a nice Insta post, but if it has no takers, it is a waste of time and energy. It’s a double-edged sword. Labels like Dior and Louis Vuitton have a steady plan of business. At Comme des Garçons, you find a simplistic T-shirt and also a massive ruffled piece, so it has to be a balanced mix.
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