Over the years, Punjabi food has been smothered with full-fat cream, butter, tomatoes and an overdose of spices by restaurants that find these ingredients as the only readily available option to make it tasty. As a result, this cuisine has earned notoriety as ‘unhealthy and rich’, keeping many sensible eaters at bay. To break this myth, renowned chef Sweety Singh is serving “home-made” Punjabi khana in a simplistic, no-fuss style at the Amritsari Swad Food Festival here in the national capital.
Singh has inherited the finesse of his father — a legend among those old Delhiites who have eaten his Mah Ki Dal and Mutton Curry straight off the bicycle that was his makeshift restaurant. In between sharing nuggets from his life, he serves us the first round of starters — Bhatti Ka Murg, Machchhli Ki Seekh and Meat de Tikke. With weather taking a nip, fish and mutton are a preferred food in Delhi and with Singh who has been selling such delicacies from his famous Kake Di Hatti Punjabi Khana at Asaf Ali Road.
On the surface the grilled chicken looks slightly undercooked, it is only when we bite into it and the meat and spices do a bhangra in our mouths that we realise we have eaten a humble pie. Oozing with smoky flavours, the chicken is tender, and has just the right hint of spices. Meat de Tikke — succulent pieces of meat, cooked in a tadka of tomatoes and onions is a new take for Delhi overfed on dry and tasteless chicken tikka. The seekh- minced sole fish mixed with his ‘secret spices’ and grilled. Had it not been for the chef, the fish —- its briny deep flavour camouflaged perfectly, would have been passed off as chicken.
Tandoori pineapple
Tandoori pineapple is another example of Singh’s careful dalliance of spices and the main ingredient. The sweet fruit leaves a unique spicy aftertaste. For the mains, we tried Sarson da saag, Dhabe da meat, Pindi chole and the quintessential Amritsari dish — Aloo vadi. The saag is mashed using traditional methods, and is delicious. The chole is not drowned in tomatoes, onions and garam masala but is cooked with bay leaf, anar dana, cinnamon and black cardamom. The Aloo vadi gravy has ginger, tomatoes and garlic in just the right quantity, with vadi’s flavours blending in well. The mutton is soft and juicy while the curry is not overwhelmed with tomato puree and grease. In the main course, surprisingly, the saag defeats the meat for top honours.
For desserts, we tried the Kesari kheer and Gosht halwa — neither of them overly sweet. Served in mitti ke kasore, the chef retained the taste of milk and rice in the kheer, not adding packets of cream to enhance flavours. It is the halwa, though, that is a masterpiece from Singh’s stable. Basically a delicacy of Rampuri cuisine, the halwa gets a Punjabi touch by the chef with gond or edible gum, that makes it crunchy and sticky.
WHEN: Till November 25
WHERE: K3, JW Marriot, Aerocity
Price for meal per person – Lunch: Rs 2,450, plus taxes and dinner Rs 3,150, plus taxes
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