For Delhiites, their relationship with Mediterranean food stops at hummus with pita, falafel and occasional baklava, which is only if a traveller friend obliges. A cuisine which tops the mark as healthy without being bland, it becomes imperative to introduce the hidden part of this mystical LaLa Land to the city generously fed on Chinjabi, dal makhni and garlic naan. Amuse House, the latest European bistro in Ansal Plaza is opening doors to the exotic Mediterranean region, handpicking the best cuisines from countries surrounding the mighty sea. And before we dismiss it as another routine outing of salads with feta-pomegranate seeds and baba ganoush, we find out that the new restaurant has deftly married modernism with traditional.
Ambience: The interiors of Amuse House spell blissful European spring. Its soothing blue and grey walls, lighting up with ample sunlight from large windows are a visual delight. As inviting is the vast expanse of outer seating, functional yet comfortable to soak in the sun in coming winter season. The casual-chic vibe are ideal for a girls’ day out or just to swig a drink or two after a hard day at work. A cover of 80 makes it a quaint Al Fresco dining experience sans the hustle bustle of European streets. An ever smiling staff, attentive to every need of yours, gets the place brownie points.
Food: Looking at the menu, we familiarise ourselves with culinary terms like shashuka, fatayer, manchego, bourak- clear indication that Virender Singh, executive chef at Amuse House has done his homework well. Each dish is a cocktail of flavours- yogurt, cheese, parsley, sumac, anchovies, mustard, anise, transcending boundaries and offering delicacies from across countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea. From Shakshuka with Pita Bread of North Africa, French style Smoked Salmon with Cream Cheese and Chives to Grilled Lamb Chops with Spiced Gremolata, served with Aubergine Dip from Italy, it is glee time for a gastronome to just read the menu.
Diners can spoil themselves rotten with array of choices like Turkish Kaftan Manti, Moroccan Fish Tajine with Saffron & Almonds, French Lamb Shank Clay Pot, Italian Smoked Mushroom Risotto too.
As we debate on the number of courses we shall be fed to walk through such an exhaustive menu, we are served a platter of in house breads-focaccia, multi-grain, sesame rolls. We have more than mouthful, smitten by their freshness and the delicious garlic butter and bacon chutney that come complimentary with it. The butter tastes heavenly and the sweet pork dip remains our firm companion throughout the dinner. Like dal makhni for Indian restaurants, hummus and pita(Rs 325) is litmus test for Mediterranean eatery which Amuse House passed with flying colours. The hummus had the right amount of garlic flavour- neither bland nor overwhelming. The pita was warm, soft and fluffy, ideal to satiate evening hunger. Given how tasty the hummus was, we recommend them to increase the portion size because one bowl is certainly not enough. Grilled Goat Cheese, beetroots & burnt Orange (Rs 365) showcased different textures of beetroot which was complimented with French Goat Cheese (chèvre). The dish is a pleasant kaleidoscope of colours- bright orange with deep red. Does it taste as good? Yes! Despite being an overload of beetroot- red wine poached, candicane fresh, dehydrated beetroot for paper, beetroot jam and beetroot jelly. The chef cleverly masked the slightly earthy bitter aftertaste of the vegetable, giving us a healthy dose of iron and vitamin C. The Artichoke and Potato Ragout Bruschetta with shaved parmesan(Rs 385) is another example of the chef’s cunning. Darting question to identify the ingredients, he smiles at us when we fail to pick potato- staple of our diet. The French will definitely scoff at Singh for marrying their favourite ragout with humble aaloo.
The pastry of Chicken Bourak with Onion, Cheese, Parsley and a hint of cinnamon(Rs415) is very delicately flaky- an example of deft hands at work. A little oily for weight watchers but the crispiness is to go for at least once. Chicken Liver Pate, Chicken terrine and poached hen’s Egg (Rs525). The texture of Pate is smooth and thick- the way French do. Chicken liver was cooked in the pate with wine, apples and forma nice puree. The terrine made with chicken leg minced with some dry fruits. Served chilled, it had poached egg and hollandaise sauce as accompaniments. For those willing to experiment with cold chicken other than cold cuts, this is a good try. Well cooked and carrying perfect taste and texture of hollandaise, it is a great conversation starter simply because of the technique involved.
In the main course, it was a tie for the top honours between Pork Belly with Parsnip Cream, Pickled Pear, Prune Puree and Crisp (Rs 425) and Lamb Shank with Baby Carrots And Pearl Onions in a homemade red pepper Spiced Jus (Rs525). Signature Amuse House dishes, both are hearty meals, an orgasmic treat for carnivores. “The Belgium Pork belly is cooked sous vide for a whopping 72 hours. It is served with Prune Puree and pears which are pickled in a white wine marinade,” Singh shares. The meat was tender, and cooked to perfection, the gruelling 72 hours retained the juices, making the dish burst with flavours.
“The lamb shanks were cooked in braising liquor which has tomatoes, wine, peppers and other root vegetables. The liquid is further reduced to make Jus and the meat is further cooked in it by adding some fresh vegetables. Diners have the option to have it with couscous / Turkish rice / bread,” the chef says. Like the pork, it was unparallel from the first spoonful. The meat fell off the bone, and it was an arduous to finish the dish and not ask for more. A word of caution- go on an empty stomach to savour this.
The last course, the desserts, was a trip through Turkey. The menu proudly places Baklava as its star dish. A rarity to find in restaurants menu, the in-house dessert does justice to the Turkish delicacy- it is overloaded with pistachio, and sweetness.
Our verdict: With dishes covering Africa, Morocco, Turkey, Lebanon among others, Amuse House left us literally amused with the food.
Address- C-108, 1st Floor, Ansal Plaza, Khel Gaon Marg, New Delhi
Meal for Two- Rs.1800/- (+ taxes) excluding drinks
Timings - Noon - Midnight
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