Ganeshotsav: Of sweet beginnings and sumptuous modaks

The festival of Ganesha Chaturthi may be loved for one million reasons, but what always elevates the good to the great is food. No Ganesha puja is ever complete without the sight of mounds of modak. We trace the origin of the much-loved modak through corridors of history, mythology and finally, kitchens.

Discovering culinary roots
From time immemorial, modak is believed to be Lord Ganesha's favourite food—he even earned the moniker 'modakpriya', meaning the one who loves modak. While it is natural that this sweet delicacy finds its roots in mythology, what remains unclear is when and how it achieved its hallowed status. We ask noted Indian academic, food critic and historian Pushpesh Pant to shed light on this matter. He says, "Many countries have lookalike dishes or dishes with similar taste but these aren't called modak so it would be futile to try and find its place of birth. Moreover, in north India, Lord Ganesha's favourite modak is shaped and prepared like a laddoo." Shrisha S. Bhat, a food expert at foodconsultation.com, concurs with Pant in that no country can be attributed with the birth of the modak but adds that, "The word 'modak' as a sweet has been used in the Vedas."

Jyotsna Bhosale, Senior Instructor - Food Production, IHM Mumbai, popularly known as Dadar Catering College, observes, "Modak has its origins and history steeped in Hindu mythology. With the Indian diaspora spread across the world, it is perhaps common to find the modak in other countries. It will also be found in Hindu states like Nepal where the Elephant God is worshipped." Variations of the modak can also be found in neighbouring states of Maharashtra, according to Bhosale. She elaborates, "Using the same ingredients—rice flour, coconut and jaggery, similar items like patoleo (pronounced at pathayo) in Goa, or its variation patholi in Karnataka are also found."

Cherry Shethia, editor of RobinAge, a weekly children's newspaper and a food enthusiast who blogs at notwithoutmyskillet.in, tries to break it down on the basis of logic. She says, "Technically speaking, modak is a dumpling. A dumpling is nothing but a sweet or savoury filling that's wrapped inside the dough, which is then steamed or fried before consumption. The dough is usually made with a grain that's locally grown. In our case, the traditional modak is made with a sweet jaggery and coconut filling that is wrapped in rice dough and then steamed or fried. Each country has its own form of dumpling, right from the Asian countries to European, Caribbean, Middle Eastern and Latin American. The Greeks have their own dumpling too!"

True enough, we found hundreds of dumpling varieties strewn across the world. For instance, Yomari is a Nepalese delicacy having an external covering of rice flour, filled with molten molasses. On the other hand, one of the variations of Varenyky, an Ukranian crescent-shaped steamed dumpling is filled with sour cherries, berries or currants. The shapes and flavours may differ but the essence remains the same.

Changing with the times
While traditionally-made modak remains popular for its simple ingredients and the time invested, as many believe, serving the Lord, modern-day modak has also found its own legion of followers. The most common variety found in markets today is essentially a khoya, mawa or dried whole milk sweet, shaped in the form of a modak.

Bhat recommends adding a twist to the traditional recipe. She advises, "The filling of pooran poli, a popular Maharashtrian dish, coupled with dry fruits and some cardamom powder can make for a great modak filling." According to Shethia, "The need to simplify life, while still being religious has helped the evolution of the modak-making industry." Sugar-free versions as well as the steamed varieties have taken dominance for health-conscious individuals. Shethia offers her quick modak recipe for the working woman of today. All you need to have is 50 grams each of pistachio, almonds and walnuts along with 100 grams of Kimia dates. This 20-minute recipe requires grinding all the ingredients together and shaping them into modaks. You could also use a mould to shape them.

Modak in Mumbai
For the best in traditional Maharashtrian modak, head to:
Panshikar, Dadar (W)
Contact: 022 2422 9526

Modakam, Prabhadevi
Contact: 022 3040 1011

For the best dry fruit modak, especially ones with cashews, head to:
Chandu Halwai, Colaba
Contact: 022 2284 0073

Artisan, Sofitel, BKC
Contact: 022 6117 5000