Face oils vs creams

When reaching for a moisturiser most of us blindly turn towards a cream. But as    more studies are conducted towards finding solutions for ageing skin, face oils have been coming out a winner. Natural oils such as almond, olive, coconut and argan have long been known to offer much benefits. But would you slather these on your face? Considered a chemical-free and hence healthier alternative to creams, facial oils made from various natural plants and substances seem to be a great choice for plumper, radiant skin. Creams on the other hand, are mostly made of waxes and water with a few oils thrown in and hence only work to an extent. Experts tell us what they recommend.

Oils hydrate better
Dr Swati Srivastava, leading dermatologist, Sketch Clinics, says that as we age our skin loses its moisture and lines start appearing. “We tend to apply lots of creams which might have a small proportion of oils in it. Since oils are lipophilic which means they love fat, they can pass through our skin and fat layer much more easily as compared to creams, thus hydrating skin in a more efficient manner. Using the pure form of these oils, is much more beneficial,” she explains. Those with acne prone skin, can use light weight oils, however, oils don’t give rise to acne.

Creams can stop working
Priti Mehta, founder and director, Omved, says while the debate of creams vs oils continues, in her opinion the scales are tipped more towards face oils. “I prefer these to moisturising creams as they penetrate deeper into the skin since the molecules of oils are smaller than the ones of creams — the skin recognises oils and does not consider it foreign. Also, oils continue to work effectively whereas creams (not oil but wax based ones) work basically by the wax forming a protective layer on the skin, trapping the moisture into your skin.

However, after a point this stops working since the very wax used to help the skin can clog pores,” she says, adding that oils are naturally rich with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids which tone the skin, enhance texture and complexion. She recommends when selecting face oils look for pure ones (not adulterated or mixed with synthetic fillers), natural plant origin (no mineral oils and other petroleum derivatives) living (not heat processed but cold extract). Choose oils that are known to offer therapeutic properties like — sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, carrot seed, coconut oil and sesame oil.

Differs with skin types
Oils are not necessarily more natural and organic than creams, it completely depends on the type of oils and the cream one uses, says Uri Yochelman, managing director, Premier Dead Sea. “Both products usually have different abilities and objectives. Oils will give us more elasticity and also some vitamins, whereas creams nourish the skin and minimise the pores creating a layer between the face and the outside world.

The SPF factor in creams also make them unique.” He suggests those with very oily skin to avoid oils altogether. The main reason being that the skin is already producing enough oil, so it will interfere with the pH level of the skin. Oils that are good to the skin usually contain vitamin C, vitamin E and even eucalyptus oil. He warns, “Just remember, if you apply an oil and go out and start your day, the dust and the pollution in the air will interact with the skin more than it would with a cream.”

To incorporate oils into your skincare regime
A gentle all over self massage — abhyanga — with a little oil can go a long way to healthy glowing skin. The best time is after a morning shower and cleansing the face. At night, a little oil after cleansing also helps, specially when sleeping in an air-conditioned room.