Demystifying monastic chic

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row showcased their Spring 2015 collection in a warehouse space which resembled an old monastery. The twins presented demure A-line gowns, mid-calf lengths and tabards emitting granny chic.

Last month, designer Riccardo Tisci's menswear offering for Givenchy had show notes which referred to his "darkest obsessions". The line mirroring a strong satanic vibe had a red and black colour scheme and models' lips were stitched and make-up maven Pat McGrath had created African masks.

Che Kurien, Editor GQ, who attended the Givenchy show says, "Riccardo's world is his world is his own. He's got a signature style. He cast very buff looking, alpha males. The casting of these models was a story in itself. They all sort of fit into the Tisci tribe which was the polar opposite of the extreme youth fetish seen at Dior Homme and Paul Smith. Outside the Givenchy show I saw 40 or 50 people dressed in his clothes. The aesthetic was tribal, strong, masculine. I can't say monastic show is a trend but Paris shows gave a new direction to fashion."

Rick Owens reinterpreted the hippie monk chic while Valentino's couture winter 2014 collection was inspired by Pagan goddesses. Victoria Beckham too served covered-up, calf-grazing granny dresses and coats.
Is sexy out and austerity in? What is it about religion that's such a turn-on for designers? A case in point being Dolce and Gabbana, who go back to their Sicilian roots time and again. Baroque-style corsets and cross pendants - being the two distinctive elements of their design vocabulary. In India, Kallol Datta has often presented Goth-inspired collections, Anand Kabra too incorporated a lot of edgy, subversive elements in his bridal line last season and Nachiket Barve's spring summer offering at Delhi fashion week had some deglam, pieces, which veered off-track from his mood board. Is it a reflection of the times we live in when people are questioning faith or are designers debating the very idea of glamour?

Anti-hedonistic wave
Designer Nachiket Barve says, "I see it as an anti-hedonistic wave in an indulgent, non-conformist way. I did a high-neck full-length dress with a slit in the front for spring summer. It was a little subversive and sensual at the same time. You also challenge - what's sexy?"

A bold statement
Designer Pranav Mishra of Huemn says, "The attention from sporty chic has definitely moved on to tribal aesthetic. Going by Riccardo Tisci and Rick Owen's shows, one can see it as a bold statement but it's difficult to say it'll be a trend in the long run."

A social commentary
Designer Anand Kabra says, "Fashion is not as frivolous as merely making clothes. It's also a socio-economic commentary on the times we live in. I have done a lot of Gothic-inspired work and it's been purely intuitive and instinctive. There's a spiritual and holistic thought process that goes behind each collection. There's a bit of fantasy, escapism and forecasting. It's cyclical."

A debate on religion
Fashion columnist Sujata Assomull Sippy says, "Fashion follows the current socio-economic situation. Of late, there has been a lot of talk around religion and people are debating the role and function of religion. The fashion set is picking it and questioning it too. The granny look fuelled by the likes of Victoria Beckham and The Row is definitely an offshoot of the fashion cycle. Covered-up can be equally sexy. With the grim economic scenario looming, people don't want to be seen as decadent which brings us to austere chic."

Myriad interpretations
Designer Dhruv Kapur of label Drvv says, "These references mean different things to different people. Riccardo Tisci's can be attributed to his catholic upbringing, Dolce and Gabbana refer to their Sicilian heritage and Rick Owens has been doing it forever. It's also questioning the religious bodies. God is a reference used to bring your metaphor across."