Most designers looked at landscapes for inspiration for their cruise lines. While Raf Simons at Christian Dior re-imagined the sequins on 60s mini dresses reminding us of a vibrant landscape, Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta referred to the landscape mid-November. Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by the culture of South Korea weaving the Korean characters for Chanel, camellia and cambon in his cruise concoctions. All in all resort seems overwhelmed with strong references to '60s and '70s - mini shifts, hot pants and jumpsuits will be very much hot on the racks in the coming months. Also, tangerine seems to be designers' fav colour this season - from prints to colour blocking in separates - it was seen across the board.
Dior
Venue: The property of Pierre Cardin
Highlights: Raf has time and again reinterpreted the brand's most potent insignia - the iconic bar silhouette. There were full-sleeved, nip-waist embellished florals in net overdresses that toned down the pleated underskirts. There was a push on proportion play here - the line saw knit onesies, patchworking and crochet. Plaid print tops with poufy sleeves, pleated minis and coats with multi-pockets, tank dresses with zig zag hems, high-waist trousers and flirty tiered shifts were some of the highlights. Models wore au naturel make-up.
Front row: Marion Cottilard, Dakota Fanning, Caroline Issa and Anne Collier
Chanel
Venue: Zaha Hadid's Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Seoul
Highlights: The boots stole the show, however they were not really boots but leather stockings. Korean wedding chests decoration inspired the mother-of-pearl embroidery on dresses. To seduce the Korean Chanel addicts, Lagerfeld opted for a high empire line and flaring sleeves on full-silhouetted dresses. There were wide patent pants, turquoise lace culottes and of course the brand's iconic tweed suits, print jumpsuits, wide-legged trousers, colour blocked jackets paired with pleated skirts and hot pants.
Front row: Kristen Stewart, Tilda Swinton, and Isabelle Huppert
Bottega Veneta
Inspiration: The landscape circa mid-November
Highlights: Jacket collars and a patchwork-pleated skirt stood out. High-waist trousers made of lightweight wool gabardine were colour blocked to give a more relaxed vibe.
There were leather bombers and track jackets constructed together from multi-hued suede. The use of the luxe athletic wear fabric in separates gave it a sporty vibe. Pleated knee-length dresses and skirts, cropped trousers worn with jackets were some of the other highlights.
Louis Vuitton
Venue: Palm Springs, California
Inspiration: The John Lautner-designed house located in Palm Springs
Highlights: The crisscrossing leather belts accenting the crop tops which flashed a whiff of the midriff was the recurring element in many ensembles. Beaded scuba jacket, tailored trousers and printed eyelet dresses stood out. The oversized front zips, color-blocking and the metal studding gave it a glam rock vibe. Buttery leather jackets paired with micro hot pants say a badass biker chick.
Front row: Kanye West, Catherine Deneuve, Michelle Williams, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Grimes.
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