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Being in Bruges

From castles and canals to mouthwatering food, sinful chocolates and lots of beer, there’s much to savour in this wonderful city. Text and pics by Harshada Rege

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Clockwise: Market Square; Beer Wall at 2Be; Cruising around canals; Belgium is a paradise for beer lovers, and Bruges has stunning architecture
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I love fairytales. The world of castles and carriages has always enchanted me. I can’t guarantee that you will meet your Prince Charming here, but Bruges is nothing short of a dreamland. There’s a castle in front of you, musicians playing a lovely tune on the streets, cobble-stoned streets, carriages ready to whisk you away and a maze of canals waiting to be explored. Then there’s beer to be had and chocolate... lots of it...which is nothing short of a delicious elixir. Welcome to Bruges. A land straight out of fables.

On my feet

I am one of those unfortunate people who cannot ride a bicycle. And there couldn’t be a bigger travesty if you are in this scenic town. Fortunately for me, I decided to make the most of his handicap and set out on foot instead. The Markt or the Market Square is located in the heart of the city. This is also where you will see the Belfry. As a friend rightly described it, Belfry is to Bruges what the Big Ben is to London. The square has houses with beautiful facades on all sides. On Wednesday, a huge market was set up by locals. Everything from fresh produce to delicious waffles and ice creams was on sale.

The most romantic seat on the boat

You cannot be in Bruges and not cruise around the canals. Every boat has a guide, who tells you about the important landmarks in three languages including English. And these charming lot sure know how to get their tips. As I hopped onto the boat, the driver pointed a corner in the far end and insisted I sit there as that was the most “romantic seat” in the house. And that was the very sentence he repeated to every passenger while making their seating arrangements. Passing under low bridges and arching trees, there’s a new row of historic houses waiting for you along the way.

Finding love

Among the many scenic spots is the Lake of Love, which is in the south part of Bruges. The lagoon is also called Minnewater, thus named after the tragic romance of Minna and her warrior love, Stromberg. Locals say that those couples who walk over the lake bridge will experience eternal love. Swans rest around the lake and are not remotely perturbed by people walking around.

Call for a carriage

The half-hour carriage ride along Bruges’ historic winding streets trots off on Markt Square. But on Wednesdays, you can find them at Burg Square. You can trust your coachman to give you expert commentary en route. You may opt for a city tour by bus too, but it’s either the horse-drawn or the bicycle carriage that I would recommend for an authentic experience.

Look back in time

Walking around will let you enjoy architecture at a leisurely pace. The buildings in Burg Square have various styles right from Gothic to Renaissance to Neo-Classic, which includes the Gothic Town Hall or Stadhuis dating back to 1376. Among the interesting structures here is the Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, the place from which the surrounding countryside was governed from the late Middle Ages until 1795. If you’re interested in the early history of Bruges, you have come to the right place.

Lace love

This is the homeland of the famous lace. While the technique has changed over time with the advent of machines, many shops keep wonderful creations that you may want to take back as a souvenir. The Lace Centre at Peperstraat or ‘t Apostelientje at Balstraat 11 were recommended highly by locals as these places sell handmade lace, which may be a bit expensive, but is worth the cost.

Know your beer

The Beer Museum located at Breidelstraat 3 is a great way to wrap up your day of walking around. Here, you are handed an iPad mini that tells you all about beer — right from the beginning to the present day. Get to know the ale in Bruges, Trappist beers, and types and brewing processes of the beverage here. Making the experience interactive are the challenges that test your knowledge. After your tour, head straight to the tasting area where you can try any three kinds of beer on the offer. And don’t forget to visit the massive Beer Wall at 2Be, Wollestraat 53. It’s absolutely impossible to capture all the bottles in one frame.

Not a swan song

Did you know that it was a punishment that led to the existence of swans in Bruges? The legend of the birds came about in the period after Mary of Burgundy’s death. Pieter Lanchals (its rough translation means ‘long neck’), who was one of the town administrators belonging to the court of Maximilian of Austria, was executed in the Bruges market square. An angry Maximilian punished the city by making the residents obligated to keep ‘long necks’, or swans on their lakes and canals till eternity. And to this day, the beautiful birds are found here.

Food is serious business

Be it food trucks or plush restaurants, Belgians take food seriously. One of the locals proudly claimed that while in other cities the quality of food may depend on the money in your wallet, in Belgium good food is a norm. And I experienced that at every corner. That also meant I ate a lot, but then that’s what you are supposed to do on a holiday, right? Be it the ice cream sold on food trucks or in shops, the fries from a store on the corner or at a fine-dining restaurant, the consistency in the quality of food was remarkable. Guzzling down beer in Belgium is an experience in itself.

Where are my frites?

I did tell you that food is serious business here, right? Where else would you find a museum dedicated to the humble fries, called frites here. If you’ve wondered whether the dish was invented in Belgium, or have wanted to know the secret to make them well, you should head to Frietmuseum, which is divided into three parts. You get to know the history of potato on the ground floor; you then head to the first floor to know about the history of fries and how they came to Belgium. But that’s not it, you then go to the medieval cellar where you get to sample some. Opt for the city card to get free entry at the chocolate and the Frietmuseum.

Chocolate tales

Belgian chocolates are world renowned and locals truly appreciate them. In fact, they’ve built the Choco-Story museum to let everyone know how passionate they are about the confection. Walk to Wijnzakstraat 2 to visit the museum that gives you an insight into the history of chocolate and chocolate-making. Do go to the store on the ground floor that offers everything from chocolate lipsticks to chocolate-flavoured tea.

Bring out the beer!

Beer in Belgium varies from pale lager to lambic and Flemish red. There are approximately 180 breweries in the country, including big companies as well as microbreweries. If you prefer sweet stuff, then you might want to try Kriek lambic, which is made by fermenting lambic with sour Morello cherries. If you are here during winter, try the Christmas ale, which was originally brewed with the new hop and barley harvest. Now, almost every brewery has its own Christmas or Winter Beer. Then there’s Trappist Beer, which is brewed in monasteries by or under control of Trappist-Cistercian monks. There are only 10 Trappist-monasteries producing lager in the world of which six are in Belgium. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. From blonde and double to stout and white beer, there’s so much to explore. This truly is a paradise for any beer lover.

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