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Bare essentials

Spring Summer 2019 menswear collections saw some unapologetic skin show like never before...

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While on one hand there was a rash of scrawny, emaciated teenagers walking the runway at Saint Laurent with torsos covered in glitter, other presentations like Jacquemus and Dolce & Gabbana saw brawny, muscled-up hulks.

While the body type identified for a showcase depends on the story which the designer wants to narrate and brand's sensibility and customer, this season saw some unshamed and crotch-led display of bare bodies. Loewe's artfully realised campaign featured full nude models and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen sent out a bunch of topless alpha males (bringing to mind Patrick Bateman) splashed with painterly strokes from artist Francis Bacon. Besides across the labels, the styling focused on skin flashes like jackets worn without any shirt underneath or a sheer shirt teamed with a pair of shorts at Dior Homme. We get experts to share their take on fashion's fascination with the male nudes this season...

Sex On The Mind 

Labels like Saint Laurent and Versace have always celebrated sex and a spirit of rock and roll and sexualised imagery has been the recurrent element on their moodboard.  

Stylist Mohit Rai shares, "Almost every major design house has been inspired by sex. House of Versace being the biggest example. This season Jacquemus' casting of beefy men seems to be driven by collection's sports vibe. I think it's a lot to do with the narrative the designer wants to convey." 

Edward Lalrempuia. Fashion Director, Harper's Bazaar hails it as a cool trend. "I like the jacket worn without a shirt underneath. Milan is always more masculine and a label like Dolce will always cast an alpha male. On the other hand, Prada gravitates towards a skinny body-type," says Edward.

Only For The Runway 

While it's great to create Instagram-friendly moment, there are some trends which have a bigger impact. Stylist Isha Bhansali sees it confined to runways and magazine editorials.  
"I think it's pictorial. I am all for the lean athletic male and can we just ban the pumped up muscled gym rats? Having said that, men today are equally conscious of their bodies and hence that reflects in the campaigns," says Isha. 

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