Bangalore — the original style city

In many ways, Bangalore has always been the capital of Indian Prêt. The ready-to-wear industry took genesis in Bangalore almost a hundred years ago. Silk was being manufactured here since the then Maharaja of Mysore imported German machines in the year 1912. This elevated Mysore silk to a new level of spinning and weaving techniques, along with its ancillary units like dyeing, printing and finishing.

Bangalore became the hub for exporters; and entrepreneurs like the Gokaldas Group, Namaste Leather and others set up huge garment manufacturing units which attracted customers from around the globe. In fact, it was Bangalore that first took Indian fashion products to the world.

When textile giants like Madura and Arvind Mills entered the ready-to-wear market, it was a logical move to make Bangalore their headquarters as did Reliance, later. The top exporters were offering superbly mechanised operations that ensured international quality at affordable prices. Today, over 80% of India’s most successful brands operate out of Bangalore. From Louis Phillipe to Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Wrangler, Levis, Lee, Flying Machine, US Polo and value brands like Megamart and Reliance Trends, they are all based out of Bangalore.

One would think that this would make Bangalore a key entry point for designers to emerge into the rapidly growing luxury and wedding sectors. But unfortunately, even Kolkata overtook Bangalore to emerge as the third most important city for fashion in India, having fielded designers like Sabyasachi, Anamika, Sharbori Dutta and others into the national limelight. Even Chennai is beginning to make waves in national markets.

Meanwhile in Bangalore, designers like Deepika Govind and Manoviraj Khosla were trying to establish a national presence through bodies like FDCI and corporate tie-ups; but they made a minimal impact on the frontiers of fashion. Designers like Sanchita relocated to Bangalore to address the lucrative European markets, but she does a limited collection for Indian markets, as well. Manoviraj Khosla has a great tie-up with many corporate brands, but somehow this talented designer, who stands for youthful energy and great brand recall, has never been nurtured into becoming the youth brand he could be. We have designers like Raj Shroff, Julie Kagti, Namrata G and many others who, with the right backing, could become extremely successful.

The talented duo of Jason and Anshu are very well known with icons like Kiran Rao and Sonam Kapoor wearing their clothes, but tiny volumes and limited outlets keep them in a bind.

The emergence of designers like Seema Malhotra, Nimirta Lalwani and Calantha bode well for Bangalore. But they also need to establish a national presence soon, to be perceived as serious competition to their Delhi and Bombay counterparts. Designers like Manoviraj who have created well known and trendy brands need the right corporate backing to make them into household names who are accessible and affordable.

I have often wondered why enormous money is spent by corporates to import dead European brands like Pierre Cardin when we have design geniuses like Manish Arora, Abraham & Thakore, Rohit Bal and Tarun Tahiliani who are ready to be turned into international brands. No reason why India cannot present the next Armani, Versace or D&G. Bangalore designers have to yet learn how to catapult themselves into the big league of Indian designers by expanding their worldview beyond just what local customers want. They need to address the ‘A’ cities of India and work on collections that reflect a broader canvas of aspiration than what they are used to. The comfort level of Bangalore can, in effect, be mind numbing, and designers often fail to see beyond the narrow confines of a localised market.

There’s nothing lacking in our designers. But if they are content to be big fish in small ponds it will be Bangalore’s loss and a crying shame. One does not have to move away from here to achieve great things. This city is, in fact, a great springboard for great things if they would only take that leap of faith.

— Prasad Bidapa, Fashion consultant
Prasad trains models, inspires aspiring designers and works towards keeping fashion in Bangalore alive.