At home in Hong Kong, story of a Mumbaikar

“In the field, she stopped and took a deep breath of the flower-scented air. It was dearer to her than her kin, better than a lover, wiser than a book. For a moment, she rediscovered the purpose of her life. She was here on earth to absorb its wild enchantment.” This edited quote of Russian poet, Boris Pasternak, was shared with me as a meme by a friend, who knows of my love for the wild. But when asked to choose between Black Forest in Germany and Hong Kong, for a work trip, I pick the latter as China has long held my fascination.

I dare to go to Hong Kong without much prior research and without booking accommodation, but had shortlisted budget-stay options in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST), Kowloon's “the giant world bazaar”. Though the room at the first guest house on my list is as pretty and well-kept as the pictures had promised, its size shocks me. This, despite being forewarned that rooms here tend to be small. But this shock is nothing compared to how taken aback I was when I entered the building that housed it—Chungking Mansions. Its passageway shouts SHADY! (a little later I discover that Chungking was once known for illicit activities) and is abuzz with loud traders, mostly from India, Pakistan and Africa, selling all kinds of wares. Seeing my luggage, salesmen from other guest houses hounded me.

Knowing I'll never be able to enter or exit Chungking without a sense of worry, I head to the next guest house, on the same road, Sunrise, in Comfort Building. Though it's only a few blocks away, the building has a perfectly safe vibe and the luxury jewellery store at its entrance sets the tone right. People inside are dressed either business-style or chic and Sunrise's owner (an Indian too) seems decent. His rooms' floral-painted walls have a sunny feel and though they are just a tad bigger than Chunking's (here, thankfully the bathroom's shower and WC areas are separate)—with a double bed, space underneath it for one bag, and a shelf two feet away to keep stuff—he charges double the amount, $500 HK. But it's totally worth my peace of mind.

Lotus seed dumplings at Deli Vegetarian Cafe, near Po Lin Monastry l Pic: jeanniebayb.livejournal.com

A fellow journalist, who had lived in Hong Kong for seven years, tells me that even houses here are so small that locals rarely call friends over. Local youngsters I get into a conversation with, share their worry that property is so dear, they won't be able to afford a house in the city they've grown up. Sounds just like Mumbai, doesn't it?

The similarity doesn't end here.

In Hong Kong you'll never miss the crowd. With a population of about 7.2 million and 60.8 million annual tourists, you'll find people everywhere. Mong Kok, Kowloon's busy street-shopping area, is reportedly the world's most populated with 1,30,000 people/sq. km. Its lanes have markets for everything—sneakers, goldfish, gadgets... I spend most of my time at the Ladies Market, flanked by stalls selling shoes, clutches, clothes and souvenirs; the rates are reasonable, but the quality of some products is suspect. I resist the lovely chopsticks sold in pairs and sets, but take back a handbag for myself and selfie sticks for friends with an insatiable appetite for pictures of themselves.  Though Hong Kong has several cheap shopping streets, the mall culture here is just as strong with some of the most popular international brands as well as domestic ones. Back to selfies, you think they are a rage in India? Well, Hong Kong takes the trend to a whole new level. Local are at it, perpetually—going up and down escalators in malls and even while dining at restaurants. At a popular Dim Sum restaurant, I watch a couple spend their entire time engrossed in clicking selfies and the food, seeming to have no need for conversation.

Sleek skyscrapers surround me everywhere I go, but like in Mumbai, relief from the concrete jungle comes from several waterfronts, which are formed by a narrow water body that separates Kowloon, Hong Kong Island and the New Territories. All of which are connected by MTR (Mass Transit Railway), Hong Kong's forever-packed lifeline that also travels to Guangdong province, Beijing and Shanghai in the mainland of China. In fact, locals use MTR even for short distances rather than walking. This means, for road directions, I find immigrants and tourists far more resourceful than locals.

Just like Mumbai's trains, HK's metro is its lifeline l Pic: CC BY 2.0

Like Chowpatty, Carter road or any of our own sea-faces, Hong Kong's waterfronts also serve as spaces to unwind. I watch people enjoy the South China Sea in solitude, eating out of their meal boxes and catching up with friends. At night, I join old and young, locals and foreigners, at the TST waterfront to watch its permanent light and sound show, Symphony of Lights. Like Hong Kong's glam billboards and trendy people, the show too is larger than life—illuminating 44 buildings of the Hong Kong Island skyline, across the sea. The red-sailed Aqua Luna, bringing people back from their hop-on hop-off cruise, adds a royal touch. But surprisingly, the glitz doesn't tire me; I find the gentle waves calming and the lively, informal vibe, contagious.

Locals here, like Mumbaikars, are fortunate to have several getaways to choose from—Disneyland and Ocean Park for adrenaline, beaches and city parks for relaxation, national parks for wildlife and ferries to Macau for gambling or various other islands for adventure and quietude. Cheung Chau island, known for its old-style houses, caves, temples and beaches, sounds tempting. One can cycle here too. But I give in to Lantau Island, where you can do the Big Buddha trek and the lucky spot pink dolphins at play at its Tai O village. Sudden chest pain makes me ditch the trek, but I take a bus (rather than the cable car) to savour the journey slow. The lush route goes through beach-lined villages and towns (very modern in comparison to India's). Once there, I climb 268 steps to the 34m magnificent, stone Buddha, circle the statue with chanting pilgrims and enjoy the lovely top view. Nearby, the Po Lin Monastary is even more breathtaking—its golden statues and gold-tinged interiors are perfectly balanced out by use of red, blue and green, making for a striking visual. Worshippers light incense sticks outside the shrine. Closeby, at Deli Vegetarian Cafe I feast on lotus-seed dumplings, red-bean pudding and other unusual delicacies. But vegetarians, beware! Some of their items have squid. My tryst with the city's nightlife is limited to a walk through Lan Kwai Fong, but I'm glad to find some local vegetarian options as well as some amazing restaurants serving a variety of cuisine.

On another day, I'm reminded of Hong Kong's British colonial past as our funicular chugs the steep, verdant, 500-odd-meter incline to the city's highest mountain—'Victoria Peak'. It starts raining and soon I'm looking out through smokescreen panes. This is Hong Kong Island, whose charm and serenity is akin to SoBo's.

As for the people, friends who've lived in Hong Kong say it's difficult to assimilate with the locals; true as it may be, being escorted to my hotel when I lose the way, gives me hope at least from the youth.