I have always wanted to go to Kashmir. Having seen it in innumerable Hindi films, and then further egged on by the famous words of Hazrat Amir Khusrau , "If there is paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here." But vacation time always meant hometown time. By the time I was old enough to pick travel destinations on my own, Kashmir was no longer safe to travel. So I stayed away. Then one weekend, I decided to head there. Two days are not enough, you'd argue. But it's a start. And discovering Kashmir for the second time is definitely on the agenda. meanwhile, here is what you can go in two days. And I urge you to go. Ditch Goa for once.
The safety factor
Most people would not venture into a troubled city or country, and journalists are more prone to paranoia, as we just happen to read and talk more about these things. So I had kind of given up the idea of going to Kashmir, even though I'd heard from friends who'd visited in recent years that all was well. Even film shootings were happening and it did cross my mind that if high-profile actors were safe, no one was going to bother with me. But it took more than that to convince me, because hey, actors get police and army cover.
How it became possible
I happened to meet a resident of Srinagar. After many conversations, (nostalgic for him, informative for me) he convinced me that it was safe to travel and that I was depriving myself of a beautiful experience by not visiting based on some silly fear. I then, met his mom who lives alone in Srinagar and she too extended an invite. On their assurance and armed with tips on where to stay, what to eat, and what to see, I booked my tickets and packed my bags in the first week of December for a weekend stay in Jannat.
Scary at first
The moment you step off your aircraft and onto Srinagar airport, you see gun toting ( and I don't mean the usual pistols and revolvers) security personel. It is not a comforting factor. Though the army at the airport should be reassuring, it is a reminder about the sensitive situation in the city. It didn't help that on the flight from Mumbai, I read about a cop being gunned down and the city being in curfew. However, as we zipped to our hotel (Taj Vivanta, which is on the top of a mountain and has a beautiful view of the Dal lake and the city below.) I see no signs of trouble. Although one spots police and army people at every few metres. They are everywhere, and after a while you just choose to blank them out and concentrate on enjoying your getaway.
Pahadi log
As a fan of Hindi films, I expect the 'pahadi log' (people who live in mountains) to be a friendly lot. And they are. My driver Majid understands that we have just two days and tells us how we can pack in maximum stuff in those two days. He advises me where I can buy the best spices and genuine Pashminas. and recommends some excellent locals delicacies from road side joints that we gorge on. The local guide is also a chatty fellow and helpful. The weather is pleasant. From 11 degrees during the say and it dips below zero in the night. It gets dark pretty early (around five thirty), so it is advisable to start your day early. The first day was spent in Srinagar.
Sightseeing spots
Visit Mughal Gardens, which is an outlet for the fresh water of a spring that flows from the mountains. Also on your itinerary should be Shalimar Bagh, Nishant Bagh, boat ride on the Dal lake. Hazratbal Shrine, Shankaracharya Temple, and Jama masjid. Must do: Eat at Ahdoos and Mughal Durbar
Hello, Europe!
The next morning we set off for Gulmarg. What struck me first was how few Indians I spot. It is almost as if I am in the Swiss Alps. There are Europeans everywhere. And there are more restaurants catering to continental fare, rather than local cuisine. One day is enough in this city. But if you like sking, snowboarding etc, then you might want to stay here for a few days. There are hundreds of hotels to choose from to suit every budget. A ride in the cable car to the highest level is highly recommended
Why winter is better
Snow-capped peaks, for one. Most people will tell you that summer is the best time to visit Kashmir when you can enjoy all those gardens in full bloom, and be able to travel light and there is the option of staying on a houseboat, which is impossible in winter. But there are also long queues everywhere. Noisy and bustling tourist reason is not the best time to enjoy any place if you really want to soak in the beauty of Kashmir.
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