A unique trail through Mumbai's most famous Ganpati mandals

Documentaries and Devotion
over the next few days, if you plan to make a trip to Kastur Park colony for Ganpati darshan in the evening, don't be surprised by the documentary they are showing on water conservation. Also don't take offence if you're told that you can't go for darshan till the documentary is over. Like most mandals, this one also started off as a humble one to celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi in 1979, but in the past 10-15 years the organisers have turned the festival into an opportunity to express love for more than just God, for humanity, for the world... They've been holding medical camps, art competitions, tree adoption workshops and showcasing documentaries ranging from education and liberalisation to environment and rape (last year). In this way, they create awareness and encourage people to take action. The idol is the same Titwala-style every year, but the decoration changes as per the documentary's theme.

Blessings with Bling
A crown of diamonds, and garlands of pearl and gold, adorn the Ganpati of GSB Seva Mandal in Wadala this year. They are offerings from the devotees for the mandal's diamond jubilee. But GSB Wadala and King Circle see such endowments, amounting to crores of rupees, every year. These are among the few mandals, where devotees in traditional clothes can perform puja, which is done the traditional way with devotional music in the background. Some pujas involve a weighing scale–a devotee sits on one side, and rice, coconut or other offerings are added on the other side to equal the weight. Chewing mawa, gutka etc. is not allowed at GSB King Circle, which boasts 59, 000 pujas in the five days before visarjan. They audit all the gifts. On the other hand, the GSB Wadala, which immerses the idol on the 11th day, doesn't believe in valuing devotees' offerings. Interestingly, both have eco-friendly idols made of clay.

Forever Famous
If there's a Ganpati in Mumbai that needs no introduction, it's Lalbaugcha Raja... Having fulfilled the wish of fishermen and vendors of Lalbaug's Peru Chawl area, who wanted a permanent place for business after the British closed their market in the 1930s, the Ganpati sees lakhs of devotees on each of the 10 days of Ganesh Chaturthi. Indians living abroad and foreigners come in huge numbers too; some visit out of curiosity about its attraction, some out of fascination, some to make a wish, some to thank for wishes that were realised… Devotees have to wait in queue for a glimpse of the Raja for at least seven hours. Nowadays, the artistic focus is generally on the 12-foot Ganesh idol and the mandal works at meeting modern requirements with big mandaps for people to sit, CCTV cameras and other security (police provides protection too), toilets, drinking water, food. But in the past people also went to this mandal for its interesting and innovative decoration and backdrops.

Palaces and Personalities
With everyone from Priyanka Chopra to Gulshan Grover and several TV stars visiting Andhericha Raja, Azad Nagar's mandal has become a celebrity hotspot. Back in 1966, when it was established by mill workers who had moved here from Lalbaug, it was a very simple affair. Its popularity resulted from a mass wish-fulfillment in the 70s; the mill workers, who had gone on strike, took a mannat (votive vow) that if the outcome was favourable, they would keep the idol for 14 days till Sankashti. And it did! Soon workers from nearby production houses started coming here, followed by their bosses and big wigs. Since a few years the mandal has been creating sets that look like famous temples and palaces of India for the benefit of those who don't have the time or money to travel. When the idol is taken for immersion on the 14th day, the lanes of Andheri go alive with firecrackers and music, there's provision for devotees to climb onto the truck and do aarti, after which they break their fast and several believers also offer letters carrying their wishes. They are immersed with the idol too.

Moving Mythology
Beautiful paintings and sculptures used to recreate scenes of the Mahabharata, Ramayana and the lives of saints belonging to the sant parampara (known for non-discrimination on the basis of caste and religion), have been the allure of Rangari Badak Chawl's mandal in Chinchpokli. Worshippers throng the mandal for a glimpse of the 8 ft Ganesh idol, which is taken for visarjan on the 11th day. This year, for its platinum jubilee, the mandal has organised a grand set-up with a 100 ft sabha mandap and a 14-foot-tall Ganesh idol amidst statues of female devotees. Scenes recreated over the past 74 years will be showcased on the walls, through photographs. What's more? The celebration won't end with Ganesh Chaturthi, but will continue the entire year through events–like deep utsav (during Diwali), rangoli competition, Tamasha and other folk performances, a symposium to offer youth guidance and workshops, and more.