A Sparkling Toast

Bold and beautiful, elegant and exquisite, scintillating and sparkling—you've got to see it, wear it and feel it to believe it. These are magical creations of one woman's labour and love for all things beautiful. We are talking about Poonam Soni whose eponymous brand has become the ageless label of indigenous designs and immaculate detailing. "I started young and was very sure that I wanted to do jewellery because I always like to be surrounded by things which are beautiful and exquisite," says Poonam who recently celebrated 25 years of the brand with a special show that had Terry Fox's sister, Judith walking the ramp.
A gold medalist from Delhi University, married at 18 and a mother at 19, Poonam believed in the proverbial, 'wake up and work hard to achieve your dreams.' And in 1989 India's first luxury jewellery brand, Poonam Soni, was born. She set out on this journey at a time when jewellery was a family-run business and jewellers would pass on the legacy and the secrets only to their kith and kin.

Carats, Cuts and Canvases
A pioneer in fusion jewellery, Poonam revolutionised the market in the 90s when she introduced semi-precious stones like malachite, lapiz, shells and leather in 18-carat gold to create her Greek and Egyptian collection, which was showcased at the London Fair in 1992. The next thing she knew, she was refusing a call she received from Harrods, "I was only a two-year-old baby in the industry and didn't have the production capacity to accept the offer from Harrods". Today, the brand has created a niche for itself and partnered with the who's who from New York to Monte Carlo. As we speak over coffee, "my collection is being showcased at the New York Fashion Week," she says with a glint of pride.

A highpoint for the brand arrived when Marc Antoine Jamet of the LVMH group invited Poonam at the opening of the Incredible India show in Paris, which was supported by Prince Albert of Monaco, to showcase alongside Cartier, Boucheron etc. In 2007, her Monochromes collection testified that no two designs of Poonam Soni are similar. She collaborated with artist Laxman Shreshtha and brought art into jewellery. She incorporated the choicest of stones, pearls, Belgian-cut diamonds and emeralds into the notable artist's miniature paintings. "The collection created waves in the international market and found itself shortlisted in the International Trends publication in Italy," says Poonam.

Glitter and Gaudi
Travelling is a great source of inspiration for Poonam. Her Gaudi Revived collection was inspired byAnthony Gaudi's architecture, when she travelled to Spain and researched his work to carve out a bespoke line. "I received several accolades for it and the government of Spain gave me patronage," she shares. A unique collection in hand painted stained glass and mixed metals, it got patronage for the first time in India. "Initially I would be upset that my concepts were being copied but gradually I reached a point where the accolades found their way to me," says Poonam.

So how does one recognise a Poonam Soni piece of art? "Distinct elements, colourful, eclectic, multidimensional are some of the adjectives that set me apart. You will find a lot of drama."

Bold is beautiful
The first designer under the Platinum Guild India programme—Soni's collection is definitely revolutionary with exquisite signature coins minted in Gaudi motifs, a men's line comprising platinum coins, vilandi and neon colours. Having won accolades at the international level, Poonam is a trendsetter when combining design with commercial viability. "The Indian market is jewellery centric; internationally, clients are more design centric and they follow trends," she reveals. Poonam now wishes to collaborate with various charities as she believes in giving back to the society. "I have got so much from the environment that I want to give back," she reflects.

Poonam opened her offices in New York and London ten years ago, it was only in 2013 that she decided to open her store in Mumbai.