We are inspired by the craftspeople: Roopa Pemmaraju

Roopa Pemmaraju, a Melbourne-based and Bengaluru-born designer, will showcase a luxe ready-to-wear collection featuring original artworks by Indigenous Australian artists on garments using fabrics created by Indian artisans at WIFW. In developing this collection in India, the designer has collaborated with weavers from Varanasi, Karnataka, Maharashtra and Studio Calantha, a Bengaluru-based atelier founded by Ms Pemmaraju. The label has previously worked with weavers in Maharashtra, Karnataka and Rajasthan. Over to the designer

What's your thought process behind your collections?
Our aim is to redefine social entrepreneurship in the luxury fashion market by collaborating with renowned Indigenous Australians. We aim to ensure that their original artworks are represented in an authentic way. We have considered how to maintain a coherent identity throughout collections by partnering with the same artisans groups seasonally with the purpose of sustainably growing their businesses while improving their skill. We incorporate similar techniques from season to season such as hand-woven silk from Varanasi, Karnataka, but we reinterpret these techniques through the seasonal theme. This innovative business model is very important to us, as it trains craftsman to create collections featuring contemporary silhouettes with delicate details, and is also a triumph for sustainable design.

The print market is already saturated. How do you sustain originality and keep innovation at the same time?
Beginning in Australia, our designs are developed in collaboration with artists from initial concept to finished garments, consulting at every stage of the design process to ensure they support the translation from painting to print placement. Indigenous artworks are very organic and unique, and also very diverse. Using indigenous artworks gives a distinctive look and feel to our collections, and allows them to stand out in the print market.

How is the Australian market different from India?
The luxury market in Australia is still growing, and offers a very China orientated product. Our aim is to offer an authentic product from India that showcases skilled artisans who specialise in hand weaving fabrics, print blocking, and hand embellishment. We believe the future of the market is beautifully handcrafted products made with integrity, authenticity and transparency.

How much has Australia influenced your aesthetic?
Australia has had a great influence; simply being in the surroundings and experiencing the culture has developed our aesthetic significantly. Observing the seasonal styles in Australia has helped us create a collection that appeals to the Australian customer. Working with indigenous artists has allowed us to have a deeper understanding of Australian culture, and we are committed to representing this in our collections.

Why did you select Wills India Fashion Week over other fashion weeks?
Wills India Fashion Week is the ideal platform to showcase our collection in India. As it takes place in Delhi, it will give us incredible visibility in our entry into the Indian fashion market as well as a chance to show our collection alongside many renowned Indian designers.