"India has a strong culture and in that respect, the potential is big..."

Are there geographical and cultural differences in the way people perceive timepieces?

A timepiece was used to tell time, now it makes a statement—it’s for posterity. One can’t necessarily distinguish trends through culture and geography. Within the same country, you can have different approaches, as within age groups. A 35-year-old will have a different reason for acquiring a watch as compared to a 55-year-old.

What do people look for in an Audemars Piguet watch?

Our customers want something well manufactured, contemporary and something they will look good in.Watch-making has changed in the last 40 years. Earlier, it was all about traditional round cases, ultra-slim watches and leather straps. We have moved to large sizes, from 36mm for gents to 40 mm, 42 mm and even 48 mm. The grand complications in our Offshore Collection are the most complicated mechanical watches we make—648 components, but traditional watches in white ceramic with a rubber band and ceramic chronograph pushers—a very modern aesthetic in a traditional engine. With our Royal Oak in 1972, we legitimised that you can have something made with all the codes of traditional watch making, but also something modern in design.

The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie

Are the young interested in your watches?

Very much. Not all youngsters can afford it, but our starting age is younger than those wearing Patek, Vacheron and Breguet. Ours are entrepreneurs with deep aesthetic sensibility. Wearing an AP is a matter of statement. Many artists, architects, interior designers and Bollywood celebrities know and love the brand. But it’s also the youngsters with acquisitive power to be able to buy an AP watch, who do so. At an aspirational level, people save money and buy an entry level watch at ₹11 lakh. Then there are mega collectors who love our collection. We need both. 

How do you see luxury consumed in India?

The potential is huge and in terms of taste, India knows what it wants from luxury. We launched yellow gold in Geneva—just five pieces—and people were surprised that we’re going back to yellow gold, when pink gold is the rage. But in India, yellow gold is popular, it is not that influenced by Western tastes. India has a strong culture and in that respect, the potential is big. But luxury consumption in India is still in its infancy, compared to its Asian counterparts.More needs to be done, whether it’s creating high streets or luxury infrastructure.

Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph

What are your plans for India?

India is a challenge and a paradox. Even .1% of the population is huge. And yet, if you would sum up the numbers of AP, Lange, Patek and Breguet, you don’t reach even 3,00,000 pieces a year. Buying luxury here is different compared to buying luxury abroad. To circumvent this problem, it’s best to work with good retailers who provide the whole experience, including after sales. There is a lot of room for India to grow, although we have come a long way. We produce 40,000 watches and for the foreseeable future that is what it will be. It’s about preserving the craft and the tradition, not about selling more, but about quality. Our price reflects our work.