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ShareI have just returned from a week's trip to the 'Big Apple' to catch up on gastronomic developments in that great citadel of hedonism.It is a cliché, but the cosmopolitanism of New York shines through its restaurants that cover practically all the world's known cuisines. I even had Yemeni, a cuisine which I had not experienced, despite living in the Middle East for some years.
First, to some old favourites -- the deli culture of New York is present throughout Manhattan but the most authentic of these, Katz, at the Lower East Side, remains true to its origins. It has the finest pastrami in the city but you have to "induce" the staff to give you the best cut, a little marbled rather than too lean. The sandwich is humongous, the pastrami unequalled, the only distractions being faded pictures of the owners posing with various half-forgotten celebrities.
If you want to eat Texan smoked ribs of beef (marinated and smoked for six hours) and the meltingly delicious beef brisket, great New York's great restaurateur Danny Meyer's Blue Smoke restaurant is outstanding. They have some very unusual sides, like the Hush Puppies, potatoes boiled and then fried and the most extraordinary moist corn bread I have eaten. The place works because of the most magnificent jazz and the garden-like atmosphere.
Meyer is also a partner in the innovative Tabla Restaurant in Madison with Floyd Cardozo. But having extensively reviewed Indian restaurants in London, I was underwhelmed by the over priced cuisine.There was an interesting take on the classic US dish, the Pulled Pork, called Pulled Lamb Sandwich. The breads, including a cheese kulcha and a saag and ricotta pizza-like naan were memorable, about the only thing that were. Incidentally, I went to the bar on the ground floor, not the formal restaurant.
My favourite Meyer restaurant and one that superbly showcases contemporary American cuisine is the Union Square Café, off Union Square consistently rated as the most popular place to eat in New York.The new chef, Carmen Quagiliata, has upgraded the menu (no burgers) but kept some of the old favourites. I had the foie gras with rhubarb, an exquisite steamed halibut, the creamiest polenta I have ever had and the iconic banana tart.There was even a chevre (goat's cheese) cheese cake.
But if you want the most spectacular view, faultless service, atmosphere and a mind-blowingly innovative cuisine there is little that comes close to Asiate at the Mandarin Oriental. This restaurant on the 35th floor, towering over the verdant Central Park, is an Asian take on American cuisine, a variation on some of Morimoto's ideas, executed exquisitely by the new chef, Toni Robertson, who is at the forefront.It also has the best brunch on the weekend.
I also went to the Café Boulud, a branch of Daniel's and arguably one of the finest French restaurants outside of France.The café is reasonably priced and Gavin Keysen consistently produces high quality French cuisine.
The other great lunch deal is Jean George's at the Trump Tower at Columbus Circle, the Nougatine Café. There was variety of salads and pink salmon on a wasabi mash. Jean Georges Vongerichten owns a galaxy of restaurants in Manhattan, including the popular Spice Market in the Meat Packing district, which successfully mimics Asian Street food, satays, noodles, vindaloos.And when I was there at 6.30 in the evening, it was packed.
