Email
Print
ShareAustria has had a tough time making its presence felt in the wine world today. It's all too often confused with the home of the macropod -- Australia.
Then, finally, when Austria did manage to get noticed it was for the wrong reasons. That is when they finally put their collective foot down and got serious about their vinous image, ridding themselves of this second hand bad-wine misplaced-kangaroo caricature.
In one sentence, Austria today is different. Vienna is the only capital city in the world with a sustainable and flourishing wine industry spread over 700 hectares right around the city periphery. Although Austria has a fraction of the size of Australian vineyards, they have over three times the winemakers who bottle their own wines. Individuality is much searched in a time when the rest of the wine world is trying to rack up wine points and be more 'universal' and 'international'.
With its 6000+ producers, Austrian wine bottling and selling remains an artisan's industry. Big companies don't exist; families run the business. Chemicals are shunned and natural is of utmost importance.
Bottling plants are mounted on the back of a truck and shared between wineries. In spite of living amidst picturesque vineyards in quaint little medieval villages, they still manage to speak a surprisingly good level of English.
While Austria does a good job with the internationally known varieties such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, it is their stock of local beauties that is to be coveted -- from the fruity red Zweigelt and the complex red Blaufrankisch, to their unbeatable whites from Grüner Veltliner. In fact, recently, at a blind tasting they were the unanimous winners, with the French coming in second.
Gruvee, as it is fondly known, is the grape to match with foods; this was established at the last International food conference I attended in Beijing.
Wine architecture too is big here. The wineries aspire not only to connect themselves with the nature that gives them the grapes but also with an aesthetic level of life that inspires further creation and thought. Holistic inspiration or unnecessary money spend, you decide but having a meal or a tasting in a setting as serene as this has to be experienced.
But all is not set in stone. Progress is constant. Whites are still being honed and the reds need a lot of work. In fact, the reds, although decent, do not remotely compare to the levels of charm and perfection that their white wines flirt with.
And finally, Austria has one thing that no other wine body in the world will ever be able to match: a genius of a national marketing board which is headed by the notorious Willi Klinger. The man can play the piano, sing, dance, joke, in at least five languages. He makes wine rules for their country and personally entertains every visiting wine enthusiast. His team is equally remarkable and between them all, visiting Austria is the most prized time on my annual wine itinerary.
So, Austria is a country to watch out for. Sure the wines aren't as cheap as their neighbours, but then the value for money quotient is definitely there. In a matter of a few years they have gone from nowhere to the top. India should be smart enough to model their industry upon them. Finally, as a parting note to the concerned, no kangaroos were harmed in the making of this truly great wine country.
The writer is a sommelier
